Icon review: Flower Drum is a drum worth beating

I once got into an argument with the husband of a friend – a Sydneysider – who expressed his disapproval of Flower Drum, because, he said, it seemed like "a white man's idea of a Chinese restaurant".

This, he seemed to be saying, was mainly because of the restaurant's formality and cost, which rendered it inauthentic – as if Cantonese cooking isn't one of the most complex and celebrated cuisines in the world, as if fine dining only exists in Western culture, as if anything cooked by immigrants ought to be "cheap and cheerful".

I'll step around the fact that this dude was himself a white man, and that Flower Drum is owned, operated and staffed almost entirely by Chinese Australians, and say that despite its accolades and popularity, I believe this is a restaurant that is widely under-appreciated and misunderstood.

Since 1975, Flower Drum has been delivering an exacting vision, one of uncompromising Cantonese fine dining.

The room, with its red carpet, large flower arrangements and white tablecloths, hasn't changed much since the '80s when it moved to its current location on Market Lane.

Nor has the dedication to a particular style of service, one in which tableside preparations are common and besuited professionals aim to inconspicuously cater to your every whim. But the partnership of chef Anthony Lui and his son and general manager Jason Lui has resulted in a restaurant that retains its classic qualities but also moves forward.

No matter how many times you've eaten here, it's impossible to argue with gorgeously rosy Peking duck ($22 per two pieces), wrapped in a feather-light pancake and served with cucumber and plum sauce, prepared exactingly beside your table and delivered like a small gift on a wide white plate.

I've eaten soup dumplings at the best dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong, and I believe Flower Drum's to be superior, particularly the Berkshire pork version ($5.50) and the huge seafood version stuffed with mud crab, scallop and prawns ($22), which swims in a fragrant but light broth and has a wrapping so delicate it dissolves on the tongue. It's no exaggeration to say this is some of the best dim sum in the world.

While classic cooking rules the day, there are dishes that show the chef's inventiveness – a trait that's a proud part of the history of Cantonese banquet cooking. Lui makes a scotch egg with a century egg and quail meat ($14), for a dish that's deeply savoury as well as being a textural marvel.

Noodles made from wild barramundi – as in, the noodles themselves – are light and bouncy ($22), tossed with sun-dried tangerine zest, pork sausage and shiitake mushrooms.

There are a number of traps into which you might fall when eating at Flower Drum for the first time.

Unless your budget is limitless, you need to be careful when delving into the fresh seafood options, which are market price and can become astronomical very quickly.

Because the menu is so broad, it can feel difficult to put together a coherent meal. Go for one of the banquet options (starting at $150), or ask your waiter for help. They won't intrude on your decision making unless you request it, and they're happy to adjust portion sizes to fit your party and your mood.

A bar has recently been added to the front space, though it generally sits empty – staffing shortages have dulled the vision of a vibrant Hong Kong-style cocktail den.

The cocktails that are on offer are perhaps a little tongue-in-cheek, leaning towards the garishly coloured and sweet concoctions that were popular at the time of Flower Drum's opening and have been seeing a nostalgia-fuelled comeback in recent years.

They don't quite fit with the elegance of the place, and I'd love to see a slightly more thoughtful approach to this part of the drinks list. Because the wine selection is pretty spectacular, even beyond the magnums of champagne and the huge selection of red burgundies. On one recent visit the sommelier steered us towards a truly phenomenal Italian riesling that was perfect with the food and relatively affordable.

Interestingly, despite its upmarket reputation, family groups with kids in tow are the norm, not the exception. In fact, part of what I love so much about this restaurant is the incredible diversity of the clientele. Most diners are here for business or for special occasions, but there are all types of people, in every age range, from the city, from the outer suburbs, from other countries.

Yes it's expensive – food and service this good have value, a fact no one would quibble with if this were a French restaurant.

Cantonese food made with this level of care, delivered by waiters who possess a rare dedication to service, is something you're unlikely to find outside of China. That we have it here in Melbourne is a blessing we should never take for granted.

Vibe Opulent in an old-school way.

Go-to dish Peking duck

Drinks Impressive wine list with a large selection of prestige bottles and crowd pleasers, '70s-style cocktail list.

Cost Varies wildly depending on what you order. Banquet menus start at $150 per person