France-Soir

WHERE AND WHAT

Nothing much has changed at Jean-Paul Prunetti's little slice of Paris on Toorak for the past 25-plus years. The very model of the classic French brasserie, it has carved a niche as a kind of unofficial clubhouse embraced by a coterie of loyal regulars as a place where things remain steadfastly the same despite the tides of fashion lapping outside its doors. The all-Gallic wait staff can be charming or abrupt depending on their mood; service can be erratic and the food can be outclassed by other big names in the field. But there's a charming insouciance to France-Soir and the illusion it creates of being on a Parisian boulevard rather than Toorak Road, South Yarra, is a beguiling one.

WHERE TO SIT

The space is long and narrow, with mirrors scrawled with daily specials and linen-clad tables closely packed so it's easy to overhear your neighbours' conversations. Try flattery, bribery and persuasion to sit towards the front; down the back, where waiters come crashing through the kitchen doors, can feel a little frenzied for those looking for a relaxing dinner.

WHEN TO GO

France-Soir is open daily for lunch, and dinner goes until midnight. It's important to book ahead - even on a cold Monday night it can be a full house.

DRINK

A treasure-trove of French wines - encyclopaedic, deep and expensive - is one of France-Soir's calling cards and makes it the home away from home for many a local vinophile whose palate has gone to France and won't be returning any time soon. But it isn't so parochial to ignore a fair selection of New World wines represented on its pages - and you can BYO wine for $12 a bottle corkage.

EAT

Snails and pissaladiere, salad nicoise and beef bourguignon, steak au poivre and roasted duckling with orange sauce. The menu at France-Soir isn't exactly replete with surprises - although what's not to love about the time-honoured cornerstones of French cuisine? It's simple and straightforward, meeting expectations rather than exceeding them. But it does show some signs of assimilation - there is a lightness and an Australian slant towards some dishes, such as grilled scampi with lemongrass, or sea perch dumplings with prawn sauce, while couscous Mondays have their legion of followers.

WHO'S THERE

A veritable who's-who of Melbourne life, from politicians to barristers, actors to artists.

WHY BOTHER?

Classic French food in a classic French bistro setting, with a wine list to die for - it's a no-brainer.

France-Soir

11 Toorak Road, South Yarra, phone 9866 8569