11 Toorak Road South Yarra, VIC
|Features||Accepts bookings, Bar, Business lunch, BYO, Late night, Licensed, Long lunch, Pre-post-theatre, Romance-first date|
|Prices||Moderate (mains $20-$40)|
|Payments||Diner's Club, eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard|
|Phone||03 9866 8569|
Settling in at this veteran bistro can feel like joining a lively party. A window-table blonde sips champagne, telling the gents on the next-door table about her trip to Paris. The gents greet a foursome coming through the brassy glass entrance. And isn't that so-and-so from the telly? But this long, mirror-lined room, busy as a train carriage at peak hour, is more than a neighbourhood hero with sharp service. For a quarter-century it has done a thriving trade in the classics: bubbling onion soup or juicy, charred steaks with a gravy boat of bearnaise. Goat's cheese on garlicky croutons with a tumble of frisee is another menu stalwart. Plump, pan-cooked scallops might come sans roe, with springy chunks of king brown mushroom. A tenderly cooked veal escalope is lapped by creamy mushroom sauce. Specials include fish and pork of the day and most mains come with textbook frites. Finish with ale flottante, a single airy iceberg of soft meringue.