Franco Choo's

Some restaurants court publicity like a Hollywood diva. Others are unassuming; assured but not assertive. Quaint Franco Choo's is a case in point. A tiny off-Chapel bolthole with loads of rustic charm, it's welcome relief in an area that's more glitzy than genteel. From a teeny kitchen chef Choo creates home-style Italian dishes that sing of care; it's a chef's restaurant and it shows. A small set menu of two to three choices per course changes regularly. Perhaps start with spaghetti, fresh tomato sauce and guanciale; or creamy saffron risotto strewn with crisp, green asparagus. Terrine of roasted vegetables might come prettily plated with vibrant, textural almond pesto. There might be braised beef shin with earthy Swiss brown mushrooms and velvety cauliflower puree or sweet pork steak with Puy lentils. Close your eyes; it could be nonna's own table. A toasted brioche and creamy pistachio semifreddo sandwich oozes house-made plum jam. Like Franco Choo's, it's simple, charming and thoroughly enjoyable.