Fratelli Paradiso

The noise that spills on to the street from this busy neighbourhood trattoria tells you a lot of people are having a lot of fun. The blackboard menu confines itself to brief descriptions such as 'taccole' (Roman beans) so wait for the full oral menu (with explanations) recited by an all-knowing waiter. Lasagnette is deeply traditional and deeply satisfying - silky smooth green pasta layered with a rich meat ragu, bechamel and cheese. Pappardelle al ragu di agnello marries juicy lamb chunks and a rich sauce, perfect for the wide pasta ribbons. A good fresh tomato sugo with fried mushrooms enlivens slightly bland polpettine (meatballs), and light, fresh nibbles of blue-eye and crunchy asparagus are expertly deep fried. Mains are served Italian-style with nothing else on the plate, so go for side dishes such as a crunchy, peppery rocket salad with pear and parmesan slices. Sgroppino - a prosecco and vodka sherbet - is like a dessert and a nightcap rolled into one.