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Italian & Sons

At the best end of Canberra dining... Italian & Sons.
At the best end of Canberra dining... Italian & Sons.Andrew Campbell

Good Food hat15.5/20

Italian$$$

Italian & Sons has an infectious sense of confidence and occasion; not formal but with swagger. The menu is best approached with the same looseness that puts it together: cured meats from the mother lode over the bar, pasta, and a dish of the day. On Tuesday, it’s wood-roast suckling pig with rosemary. On Thursday, chianti-braised wagyu beef cheeks, gelatinous and highly satisfying, with braised peppers and gremolata. The wood-fired oven gives charry life to meats, pizza and bread and adds warmth to a pumping space. Roast kingfish is translucent inside, with a caponata of eggplant, currants and pinenuts. Baby calamari is a simple cast-iron pan dish, with black olives and tomato, while peach gelato tastes exceptionally of peaches and is served on lovely plate ware. Service is well informed. At the best end of Canberra dining, here’s the place you return to first.

And … A new bar due out the back means outdoor dining.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
Bare-tabled Italian with plenty of bonhomie.
Best bit Full-flavoured rustic Italian.
Worst bit Two-seatings policy means eating early or late.

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