MezMez

My day pivots on the moment breakfast lands on the table. If it doesn't look right (wan bacon, flaccid toast, unjiggly eggs) my heart sinks and I know it will be a day of uncharged phones and rogue red socks in the whites wash. But if my breakfast looks as appetising as the sujuk sausage and egg at MezMez then it's a good day: there'll be free-flowing traffic and extra hugs.

Sujuk is a dryish, spicy sausage, usually made with beef, and eaten everywhere from Croatia to Kazakhstan. It's also found in Williamstown, the winsome seaside home of Amin Elmenawi's third cafe (he's got Newport's Pint of Milk and the Pickle Barrel deli, also in Willy).

At MezMez, the paprika-spiced sujuk is grilled, sliced and served with crisp roasted potato bits and an egg that has succumbed for just long enough to fierce frypan heat: the white is frayed, and the yolk spills jauntily. Baby spinach, wilted but not destroyed to mush, tangles with the spuds. A scattering of dukkah (a toasted blend with cumin, nuts and sesame seeds) ties the flavours together with a brash brunch bow.

Lunch is along mezze and kofta lines; there's a sturdy falafel pide with charred eggplant, and a fattoush (chopped salad) with pita bread and the delicious bottom-of-the-bowl juices that denote a great salad. Have it with zaatar-crusted chicken if you like.

MezMez is named for Amin's late father Elhami, an Egyptian immigrant and the family's chief cook, who gathered his clan for dinner by calling, "Let's mezmez!" The cafe is a homage both in flavours and tone: timber keeps the mood warm and the lights are made with shisha water pipes. It also ticks off Melbourne musts like good coffee, fancy juices for healthy buzz (try the Hulk, with cucumber and kale), high chairs and wi-fi. Evening dining is planned.

Rating: Three and a half stars (out of five)