Il Centro

It might be positively middle-aged in restaurant years but there seems to be a new spring in the step of this CBD stalwart. Is it head chef Catherine Anders hitting her straps? Or perhaps the demolition and rebuild of the wine list by sommelier Shawn Gomes? It's of no consequence to regulars who only care that Il Centro's old-school hospitality and generous portions ensure they'll leave with a full belly and a warm glow. Premium produce such as sweet Hervey Bay scallops provide the foundation for an Italian-accented but thoroughly modern menu. Here they come atop al dente squid ink risotto with translucent slivers of fennel. House-made pasta in all its forms is a natural choice. Tortellini are filled with rich braised wagyu cheek and bathed in a surprisingly delicate walnut and gorgonzola cream, while light saffron gnocchi come with a vivid green zucchini puree studded with nuggets of bug tail. Loosen a jacket button for desserts such as a pillowy raspberry souffle or Il Centro's tiramisu interpretation.