14.5/20
Contemporary
The cautious diner is often wary of rooms with a view. But throw caution to the ocean winds because the stunning beachfront vista at Oskars is easily matched by the food - beautiful, carefully selected ingredients prepared with a dash of French elan. Lovers of souffle will find both savoury and sweet expertly prepped with a fine balance of flavour. The twice-cooked sand crab souffle is a particularly fine example of the art. Marty Kollrepp has a deft hand with the skillet but away from the sea spray he shines too, with a rich, earthy confit duck and glistening, pink rack of lamb are standouts. A thin-crusted cherry tart more than compensates for any feelings of guilt that you're not out there with the surfers, ripping it up. Only a slightly unambitious list and toilets provincially located outside the restaurant stood in the way of true greatness.
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