Comeback trail: The return of Australian grenache

Grenache is a grape variety that's always had great potential in Australia. Its spiritual home might be in the vineyards of Mediterranean France and Spain, but Australian grenache from regions of similar mild, warm climate, like McLaren Vale, have a long heritage. Out of fashion and unloved for many years, Australian grenache is now being discovered by a new generation of wine drinkers. Traditional warm, ripe versions still exist, alongside more modern, fragrant and spicy styles, often blended with complementary red grapes like shiraz (syrah) and mataro (mourvedre).

S.C. Pannell Basso Garnacha 2017, $26-$28

Score 90

This McLaren Vale grenache has a true Spanish accent, as the name Garnacha suggests. The nose combines red berry and cherry aromas with earthy and leathery notes. Medium-bodied with a smooth middle and savoury tannin structure, it finishes long, ripe and warm. Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Harley & Rose, Footscray West (Vic); Different Drop, Ultimo (NSW).

Angove Family Crest Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2017, $20-$22

Score 90

Centred on McLaren Vale grenache in a traditional three-way blend, this is a generously built wine with a nose of ripe berries, plums and spice, touched by regional rustic earthiness. Flavoursome, round and complete, it's easy to drink with easy, ripe tannins underneath. Screw cap; 14.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Camperdown Cellars stores (NSW); IGA La Manna, Essendon Fields (Vic).

S.C. Pannell Old McDonald McLaren Vale Grenache 2017, ​$60-$62

Score 96

If anybody doubts the quality levels possible with McLaren Vale grenache, they should try this. It's a deliciously complete, round wine, smelling of berries, cherries, sweet spice, pepper and ironstone. The middleweight palate is finely textured, intense, profound and lingering, backed by a poised, drying bite of tannin. Screw cap; 14.2 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over 10 years.

Stockists include Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); Le Pont Wine Store, Milsons Point (NSW).