Australian Open 2021: Food offering heroes Victorian chefs, produce

It's been a rough road for the organisers of this year's Australian Open. But if you thought the edible options were going to be pared back, you might be surprised. Here's what to eat between matches.

It's coming at us two weeks later than normal, and following quite a few dramas. But put all that aside because it is on like Donkey Kong.

For returning spectators, 2021's Australian Open will be a different experience. That isn't to say it will be deficient in any way. If anything, organisers have worked even harder to ensure those who gather around the courts will have an experience like no other, all of it in a safe environment.

To enact COVID-19 protocols, the precinct has been split into three zones: a ticket to Margaret Court Arena includes a reserved seat in the arena, as well as access to the courts on the western side of the grounds, including the show courts, and Garden Square; a ticket to John Cain Arena on the eastern side of the precinct includes the Practice Village and part of Grand Slam Oval; and Rod Laver Arena guests will have a reserved seat and access to most of Grand Slam Oval and the new Atrium.

"Normally you could traverse the entire site and experience whatever you want," says Australian Open chief revenue officer Ben Slack. "We've had to make sure that when we've redesigned the precinct and split it into the three zones there's a suitable offering in each."

Central to the AO experience is the vast range of restaurants, bars and food outlets where punters can refuel. And this year won't be any different.

You're just as likely to hear us talk about a tomato as about a top chef.

Ben Slack

Spotlight on the regions

Given the extremely average 12 months Victoria has just been through, the full focus of the tournament will be on local talent, says Slack.

"It was really important for us to use the Australian Open platform to hero Victorian produce as much as we do with local talent," he says. "You're just as likely to hear us talk about a tomato as about a top chef."

That mantra is adhered to across the entire venue. Regional chefs are bringing their A-game to sit-down dinners, and pop-ups in Garden Square might feature strawberries from Sunny Ridge on the Mornington Peninsula one day, and Israeli street food eatery Miznon's famous roasted baby cauliflowers the next.

During the first week, the Glasshouse will be turned over to some of our regional champions. "We wanted to work with chefs who are very much about celebrating this local produce," says Slack. "But we also had to find good representation across Victoria."

For the Chef Series, the team has recruited Michael Ryan from Provenance in Beechworth; Phil Wood who helms Laura at Pt. Leo Estate on the Mornington Peninsula; Mark Briggs from Sardine Eatery and Bar in East Gippsland; and Jo Barrett, a champion of Yarra Valley produce after a long (now finished) stint at Oakridge Winery.

Over at the Margaret Court Arena Zone, Igni chef Aaron Turner is bringing Geelong and the Bellarine Peninsula to the tennis. "We're working with the AO's food truck people to do some street food using produce from the Bellarine," says Turner.

"I also have a hot chicken restaurant, a cheeseburger restaurant and a Mexican restaurant [in Geelong], so we're incorporating those three because they suit the street food vibe. Plus, there's some really great whiting around so we decided to do fish and chips."

Expect to see Sher Wagyu, Bannockburn free-range chicken, Lonsdale Tomato Farm tomatoes, lettuce from Paulmar Hydroponics and bread rolls from a Geelong baker across Turner's menus.

Gippsland gets its two days in the sun as well, with Alejandro Saravia hosting the Finals Dinners (20–21 February) at his new Collins Street venue, Farmer's Daughters. The eight-course shared menu will include dishes such as Lakes Entrance John Dory crudo; grilled O'Connor beef with purple broccoli and Mirboo garlic; and baked Baw Baw alpine trout with mountain pepper cream and trout caviar.

Raise a glass

For the first time at any major sporting event, wine producer Penfolds will be hosting a restaurant. Penfolds Conservatory guests will enjoy summer produce-driven dishes matched to wines from the brand's premium portfolio, all served up with a view of the Yarra.

Also new to the River Terrace, in the Rod Laver Arena Zone, is the two-storey Atrium. Chef Scott Pickett of Matilda and Chancery Lane has created a signature menu for both the indoor and alfresco dining areas.

Also within the Atrium is the intimate Piper Heidsieck Champagne Bar, with a light menu, music and, of course, glasses of bubbles.

Atlas goes Australian

Since he opened Atlas Dining in 2016, chef Charlie Carrington has travelled the world, exploring a country's food culture about every four months and forming his discoveries into a new menu. But the enforced break from travel has meant looking closer to home.

Atlas Australia will debut at the Glasshouse during the second week of the tournament.

"We never really thought we'd do Australia," says Carrington. "I think I worked out that if I worked until I was 77, I could have done every cuisine in the world and maybe Australia could have been the last one. But we don't have any other option at the moment, and it's great to do something that pushes you a little."

And push the chef it will, because there is very little agreement on what defines Australian cuisine.

"Everything always starts with the produce and this means working even more closely with some of our suppliers," Carrington says. "There are some items I definitely want to see on this menu, like beautiful seafood. I'll also be using some native ingredients, but I'll also look through some older cookbooks for inspiration."

Glasshouse guests will be treated to five courses, including dishes such as smoked Holy Goat cheese with Glenhora Heritage Produce's heirloom tomatoes and Mount Zero olives; and Murray cod cooked in paperbark, matched to a wine list curated by Treasury Wine Estates.

Carrington will feature some very local saltbush on the menu. "We get it all from St Kilda," he says. "People wander along the foreshore thinking, 'Look at all those beautiful plants,' but a lot of them are edible.

"The saltbush is one of my favourite ingredients – when you fry it, it tastes like salt and vinegar chips."

Because a limited number of guests can attend the Glasshouse dinners, Carrington is also simplifying the menu for one of his Atlas masterclasses. Launched during Melbourne's lockdowns, these meal kits have proved incredibly popular.

Just a bite

As always there's plenty going on in the public areas, too.

Part of Garden Square is being transformed to create the AO Garden Kitchen by the Commons, serving up Victorian produce in a gourmet tasting experience (owner Bruce Keebaugh, pictured).

As well as Miznon's offerings at Grand Slam Oval, guests can enjoy burgers from Royale Brothers and healthy Japanese food from Hiro Sushi. Plus Adam D'Sylva, of Coda and Tonka fame, will be debuting D'Sylva's Fried Chicken.

"We've got what I call my famous chicken, which is fried chicken with Vietnamese slaw. My favourite is the Dirty Bird, which is fried chicken with habanero chilli sauce, jalapenos, pickles and fries – it's nice and spicy.

"There are also burgers – a Japanese one, the AO Classic for anyone who doesn't want any spice, and there's a vegetarian burger called the Dahl Bun," D'Sylva says.

Apart from being able to serve up his spin on fried chicken to thousands of punters, the Australian Open is one of D'Sylva's favourite events. "It's the pinnacle event that kicks the year off, really," he says. "I just love the atmosphere of it all – it's two weeks of fun."

The 2021 Australian Open runs from February 8 to 21. For more information and to book tickets for any of the dining experiences, see ausopen.com/premium-experiences.