The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Beku Gelato brings fresh south-east Asian flavours to Carlton, closes original Brunswick store

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Beku Gelato brings south-east Asian flavours to Carlton's crowded gelato scene.
Beku Gelato brings south-east Asian flavours to Carlton's crowded gelato scene.Supplied

Gelato after dinner is a Carlton ritual, but with the arrival of Beku Gelato on Lygon Street, there's even more choice, with flavours such as durian, kalamansi and Milo inside silver pozzetti.

Agusta Triwahyu, a former engineer, opened Beku in Brunswick East in 2017; it was a fun way to get people excited about flavours from her native Indonesia and other parts of Asia.

Carlton was to be her second store, and it was – for about six weeks. But staff shortages and winter's COVID cases made it difficult to staff one store, let alone two. She made the tough decision to close the original location in August and focus on Carlton.

Paan gelato (like the Indian snack made from betel leaf and spices) is one of the flavours you'll find at Beku Gelato.
Paan gelato (like the Indian snack made from betel leaf and spices) is one of the flavours you'll find at Beku Gelato.Supplied
Advertisement

"The Brunswick shop was like my baby. We sort of know everyone there; we call most customers by name," she says.

But the silver lining is that Carlton is bigger, brighter and more visible, with a royal blue heritage shopfront bringing in new customers to try the 20 flavours. Among them are staples such as teh tarik (sweetened Malaysian tea), hojicha (roasted green tea), coconut sorbet and Biscoff.

Monthly specials are inspired by the neighbouring Turkish, Mexican and Japanese restaurants.

"The wider shopfront means people can come in freely and browse. I can easily showcase the flavours, they can see things," says Triwahyu.

There's also more room for Triwahyu and her team to make gelato, and they've been able to add drinks including teh tarik, poured in the customary long streams to achieve the right texture, and milkshakes based on the gelato flavours.

Advertisement

Triwahyu says the welcome from the neighbourhood has been warm.

Open Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12.30pm-11pm, Sun 12.30pm-10pm

150 Lygon Street, Carlton, beku.com.au

Continue this series

Melbourne hit list September 2022: Hot, new and just-reviewed places to check out, right now
Up next
Chicken schnitzel with mustard gravy and fennel salad.

Fitzroy North's Royal Oak Hotel feels like the real deal again

Entering the new version of this old building gave me that tingly feeling, like: We're back. The pub is back. Melbourne is back, writes Besha Rodell.

Luscious: Tagliatelle with ragu bolognese.

Abbiocco's St Kilda spin-off has staying power

Like its big sister, this neighbourhood restaurant serves smart Italian snacks and pasta, all tasty and satisfying.

Previous
Valencian-style paella with rock lobster.

Arbory Afloat's Spanish-themed return for 2022 - and what's on the menu at the Melbourne bar

The Melbourne pontoon bar's 2022 look is inspired by the Balearic Islands, offering a Spanish menu that criss-crosses the country from top to bottom.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement