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Brunswick East wine bar Figlia brings the Tipo 00 touch to pizza, snacks and artisan cheese

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

A large horseshoe-shaped bar, lit by curvaceous art deco-style pendant lamps, will be a focal point of the 80-seat venue, which is geared to walk-ins.
A large horseshoe-shaped bar, lit by curvaceous art deco-style pendant lamps, will be a focal point of the 80-seat venue, which is geared to walk-ins.Luis Enrique Ascui

Figlia, the pizza-driven wine bar from the team behind ever-popular city pasta bar Tipo 00, is finally ready to char its first pies and pour vermouth for the people of Brunswick East.

Doors open on Wednesday, August 24 at the Ewert Leaf-designed site, which layers earthy materials with a subtle palette of black, dark wood and bottle green.

A large horseshoe-shaped bar, lit by curvaceous art deco-style pendant lamps, will be a focal point of the 80-seat venue, which is geared to walk-ins.

Mortadella pizza with taleggio and pistachio.
Mortadella pizza with taleggio and pistachio.Luis Ascui
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"We want it to be a place where people, on the way home from work, stop in and have a glass of wine or a beer," says co-owner Luke Skidmore, who's opened the venue with Andreas Papadakis and Alberto Fava.

Carafes of vermouth, served with a bottle of soda water, are designed for aperitivo, matched with snacks from the grill such as skewers of chicken liver and balsamic onion, or burnt carrots with mascarpone and anchovy.

Duck mortadella, made in-house, is paired with blood orange mostarda on another small plate, while Sher wagyu steak is joined by porchetta and whole wood-fired fish among the main courses.

The crew behind one of Melbourne's best pasta restaurants is taking on Italy's other major food category, pizza, in a cool wine bar package.
The crew behind one of Melbourne's best pasta restaurants is taking on Italy's other major food category, pizza, in a cool wine bar package.Luis Ascui

"There's a lot of chargrilled and fermented things on the menu that are more wine bar snacks, as opposed to just [being] your classic pizzeria," Skidmore says.

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However, he does describe the pizza dough as "really impressive". It's the work of head chef Flavio Argenio, who ferments it for 48 hours and uses flour from Wholegrain Milling Co. in NSW.

Toppings include stracciatella with fermented cabbage that's akin to an Italian take on kimchi, Moreton Bay bug paired with tomato and marjoram, and ox tongue with roasted garlic and pecorino.

Barbecued king prawn with tomato sugo, one of many stuzzichini at Figlia.
Barbecued king prawn with tomato sugo, one of many stuzzichini at Figlia.Luis Ascui

Skidmore says pizza is great with minimal-intervention wines; here, it's mostly Italian varieties, which come in carafes, magnums and everything in between.

Cheese made by chef Lucy Whitlow will be served on the house cheese plate and, come October, be available for sale in the neighbouring deli, Grana.

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This has its own entrance and a wall of fridges stacked with salumi, wine and cheeses. It will also sell panini and filter coffee.

Open Mon and Wed-Fri 5pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late.

331-335 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, 0402 349 327, figlia.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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