Chin Chin’s Chris Lucas shares his best bistros, boulangeries and blow-out meals in Paris

It’s lunchtime at Chez George, the renowned timber-fronted bistro on Rue du Mail in Paris that set Julia Childs on her French cooking odyssey, and serial restaurateur Chris Lucas (Society, Chin Chin, Grill Americano, Kisume et al) and his entourage are having a granular level discussion about fries. Length, breadth, shape, crispness, colour, seasoning, heat, the container they’re served in are all being forensically examined by the crew: Society head chef Damian Snell, Lucas Restaurant’s wine honcho Loïc Avril and marketing manager Celia McCarthy. They’re all here as part of a fact-finding mission ahead of Lucas’ next venture, a Parisian-influenced bistro called Batard, due to open in Melbourne’s CBD next year.

The lunch is part of an intense Parisian itinerary, one that will cover 27 different places in five days and includes storied high-end restaurants, classic bistros, new school brasseries, markets large and small, kitchenware stores, charcuteries, patisseries, boulangeries and wine shops. The trip is not an exercise in pilfering ideas to replicate in Melbourne, though. Lucas, a long-term fan of Paris and a geek-level Francophile says it’s more about “a sensory immersion in the food culture of Paris”, like a mood board in three dimensions.

“We don’t just say: we love this souffle, let’s replicate it,” he says. “We’ll discuss what’s great about that souffle but then think about how we layer our own sensibility on it. We want Batard to be as much a Melbourne restaurant as French one. A trip like this is about immersing this new generation in the culture, inspiring them and opening their minds in a way you can’t get at catering school or through and apprenticeship where the lessons are more about specific technique and dishes.

“Bringing the team together like this, away from their regular lives and jobs means that we can have uninterrupted conversations about the small details of what we want to do. Like exactly how we want to serve our fries.”

There will be many details to consider. Batard, like all of Chris Lucas restaurants, will have ample money and ambition behind it. Occupying the historic Society restaurant site at the top end of Bourke Street, the new project will be a four-level Parisian-influenced extravaganza that will include a basement supper club, a leafy rooftop dining area, an oyster bar and a two-level restaurant that’ll feature multiple Josper Basque grills, a rotissoire and a wood oven.

Menus are yet to be finalised but for some pretty serious clues about direction, it’s worth checking out Lucas’ highlights from this most recent visit.

Chris Lucas’s guide to Paris

I’ve been visiting Paris since I was a backpacking student and still find it one of the most culturally rich and vibrant cities in the world, holding steadfast to its belief that life without beautiful food is simply not life at all.

But in a city as complex as Paris, where do you begin? You can visit Paris 10 times and if you don’t know where to eat, it can be really bad all 10 times. For me, it’s about getting away from the mass tourism sites and exploring individual neighbourhoods with their own eclectic mix. I ask shop assistants, waiters and sommeliers for advice. Once you start on that path, the doors start to open. A good rule of thumb? Don’t ask the concierge.

Many Parisian restaurants are embracing new ways of doing things, both traditional places that are now cooking with a lighter touch, and exciting new places with adventurous chefs and multicultural kitchens not afraid of new ingredients, particularly Asian ingredients.

I ask shop assistants, waiters and sommeliers for advice. Once you start on that path, the doors start to open.

Chris Lucas

When you’re visiting France, seek out both types of places. For me, the best arrondissements (districts) to visit are the 4th, the 7th and the 11th. The 4th is a university precinct, the 7th a more upmarket neighbourhood at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, while the edgier 11th is where many new chefs are opening because it’s more affordable. Spend time walking around these neighbourhoods and you’ll always discover something, whether that’s a street market, a kitchenware store, a patisserie, or a traditional backstreet bistro.

4TH ARRONDISSEMENT

Bistro Benoit

This is one of Paris’ most famous bistros, founded in 1912 and saved by acclaimed chef Alain Ducasse, who has restored it to its former glory while staying true to its origins, from the poached Norwegian salmon with boiled chats and tangy hollandaise to its famous cassoulet and profiteroles Benoit. Ask politely to sit in the front room, Anna Wintour’s preferred perch. 20 Rue Saint Martin

Chez Georges

This well-worn, atmospheric and tiny room smells and looks exactly as you’d imagine of a neighbourhood bistro, particularly one that converted Julia Childs to French cuisine. It has a long narrow room with wood panelling, a tiled floor and speckled mirrors and is often packed with local students and artist creatives. Its classic bistro menu champions everything we love about places like these, from the lentil salad and excellent sweetbreads to fat white asparagus topped with hollandaise. 1 Rue du Mail

Au Pied de Cochon

Au Pied de Cochon is a nose-to-tail institution whose neon signs first switched on in 1947. Traditional brasserie fare is the heart of the menu which, as the name suggests, is famous for all things pig. I go for the oysters, which are among the best in Paris. You can pop in for a dozen Bretons and a glass of chablis between meals as I like to, to avoid the crowds. 6 Rue Coquilliere

Le Comptoir des Caves

One of the last remaining traditional wine shops in Paris, this wood-panelled store not only features an excellent selection of wines, cognacs and liqueurs for sale but also has a lovely small restaurant out the back. 1 Rue de la Banque

E. Dehillerin

Always my first stop for kitchenware in Paris. Opened in 1820, this store hasn’t changed one bit since I’ve been visiting. Originally a kitchenware store for chefs and cooks from the nearby Les Halles markets, if you’re into pots, pans, duck pressers and all things baking, you’ll have fun here. 18-20 Rue Coquillière

7th ARRONDISSEMENT

Bistro La Fontaine de Mars

A relatively low-cost option for the area, so very French and tucked away on the fashionable Rue Saint Dominic, this restaurant epitomises the classic French bistro serving freshly shucked oysters, delicious roasted chicken and, when in season, asparagus and morels. It’s small, quaint, hospitable and relatively untouched, a rarity in a city so exhausted by mass tourism. 129 Rue St Dominique

Arnaud Nicolas

For the best terrines and charcuterie in Paris, look no further than the tiny innovative bistro of famed chef Arnaud Nicolas. Nicolas has pioneered the modernisation of classic terrine and charcuterie, making them lighter and more delicious. Ask for the mixed board of the best terrines and hams (make sure to include the rabbit, mint and broad bean terrine), be offered a little glass of Alsace riesling and enjoy the marvels of this master. 46 Avenue de la Bourbonnais

Tomy & Co

French-Cambodian chef Tomy Gousset opened Tomy & Co a few years ago, not far from the Eiffel Tower. Tomy is one of a new wave of young stars who turned their backs on the formal Michelin restaurants and have ventured into cooking food from their ethnic origins, weaving that into the elegance of French cooking. Organic vegetables from around the region are bolstered by produce from his kitchen garden. Standout dishes include black sea bream with beetroot, caper flowers and honey-mustard sauce and chicken with foie gras and a broccoli-maize puree. 22 Rue Surcouf

Boulangerie Laurent B

Opposite Fontaine de Mars, this gorgeous boulangerie serves freshly baked baguette with freshly cut jambon, fromage and the creamiest of butter for breakfast alongside apple tart and luscious flans. This is a very popular local bakery so go early to avoid missing out. 112 Rue Saint Dominique

Rue Cler market

A haven for foodies, this buzzing cobblestoned stretch is one of Paris’ most famous and authentic market streets and a personal favourite. Both sides of the street are packed with greengrocers, fishmongers, delicatessens, patisseries, cheese stores, cafes and other culinary gems. Stock up on all your favourite food items or just wander around, snacking as you go. It’s a charming slice of Parisian city life.

11th ARRONDISSEMENT

Bistro Paul Bert & L’Escailler du Bistrot

This epitomises traditional bistro dining complete with service that people either love or loathe: waitstaff full of personality but not really interested in answering too many questions or dealing with indecision. Order the classics. The steak au poivre is the best in Paris, but equally famous is the sizeable cote du boeuf and their sole meunière. Next door is their seafood and oyster bar L’Escailler — arrive early for some of the freshest and most grippingly briny oysters in Paris. 18 Rue Paul Bert

Ham’s Maison de Jambons

Across the street from Paul Bert is this tiny shop where you can pop in for glass of Côtes du Rhône and have the owner present you with a superb array of Spanish, Italian and French hams with house pickles and condiments. Perfect for an afternoon aperitivo. 21 Rue Paul Bert

Le Chardenoux

The recently restored Belle Epoque dining room of Le Chardenoux is exactly what you envision when you think of glamorous old-world Paris. It’s owned by celebrity pastry chef Cyril Lignac, who is charting a new direction for food lovers in Paris. He artfully balances the nuances of Asian flavours with French classics – white asparagus with a miso glaze, langoustine ravioli in a ponzu broth – a fresh and exciting direction in what can be a repetitive bistro scene. Don’t just stop here. Lignac also has his own chocolatier and boulangerie across the road. 1 Rue Jules Valles and Patisserie Cyril Lignac

Du Pain et Des Idées

Some say these are the best escargot in Paris, if not the world! It’s been around since 1875 and its pistachio escargot, custard flan and pain au chocolate are all highlights. 34 Rue Yves Toudic

OLD-SCHOOL BLOWOUT

Epicure at Le Bristol

Epicure at the famed Le Bristol in the 8th arrondissement is a grand, expensive three-Michelin-star temple of gastronomy that oozes sophistication. It’s an homage to fine craftsmanship overlooking one of the most beautiful courtyards in Paris. The signature dish is the Bresse hen, which is presented inside a pig bladder at the table before being served in two stages. The first is the breast of the chicken cooked in vin jaune wine and served with crayfish, candied chicken giblets and black truffle. The second sees the leg roasted on a Japanese barbecue, served with mesclun salad and more black truffle. A truly once-in-a-lifetime dining experience that includes Le Bristol’s cellar of around 50,000 bottles. 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré  

Michael Harden travelled to Paris as a guest of the Lucas Group.