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Five of Melbourne's best high teas to try as you raise a toast to the Queen

Jane Rocca and Emma Breheny

Yugen Tea Bar's Culinary Director Stephen Nairn has put a modern spin on traditional high tea.
Yugen Tea Bar's Culinary Director Stephen Nairn has put a modern spin on traditional high tea.Simon Schluter

However you choose to mark the Queen's passing, you could do worse than sitting down to afternoon tea in your Sunday finest. Tiny egg sandwiches, petite pies, scorched lemon meringue tartlets - there's plenty to love, even if you're a staunch republican.

It might reek of British tradition, but Melbourne, as always, has put its own spin on the ritual.

Native Australian ingredients are incorporated at The Langham in Southbank while Yugen Tea Bar in South Yarra sources rare teas from far-flung places like Malawi and ensures every bite complements what's in the cup.

Afternoon tea at The Waiting Room includes Milawa goat cheese tart and warm lobster thermidor vol-au-vents.
Afternoon tea at The Waiting Room includes Milawa goat cheese tart and warm lobster thermidor vol-au-vents.Supplied
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That's not to say the purists aren't looked after. Our city's own reigning queen of afternoon tea, The Hotel Windsor on Spring Street, has been setting out the tiered stands since 1883. Many believe it's still the high watermark.

But can you explain the difference between high tea and afternoon tea?

Contrary to popular belief, the two are not interchangeable. It all comes down to the type of chair you're sitting on and time you decide to sit down for your fancy fare.

Afternoon tea at The Waiting Room at Crown.
Afternoon tea at The Waiting Room at Crown.Supplied

Afternoon tea was also known as low tea for the low tables and chairs it was served at. It was a mid-afternoon luxury for the upper classes and most closely resembles what we see today. High tea was a working-person's meal at the end of the day, eaten at a dining table and often more savoury and substantial.

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Another quirk to know before you go to afternoon tea this weekend is that, in Britain, hotels often serve both fruit and plain scones. Those hewing closely to tradition in Australia may serve the official recipe of Buckingham Palace, which includes sultanas soaked in hot water for 30 minutes to plump them up.

Armed with these tidbits, you'll be the jester of the party, as you dissect who in the royal family said what and who stood where at official proceedings over endless cups of tea.

Some of the inventive morsels on offer at Yugen Tea Bar in South Yarra.
Some of the inventive morsels on offer at Yugen Tea Bar in South Yarra.Simon Schluter

Yugen Tea Bar

605 Chapel St South Yarra inside Capitol Grand

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A contemporary tea house run by a LK Hospitality's culinary director Stephen Nairn puts a modern spin on tradition. You won't find standard cucumber sandwiches here – it's all about matching flavours to teas – where savoury and sweet are also presented in tiered perfection. Think puffed forbidden rice, shaved wagyu and horseradish, a parmesan gougere, chive and kombu while Yarra Valley salmon roe also finds a spot on the menu.

The Age, Good Food. High Tea at Yugen Tea Bar in Sth Yarra. Pic Simon Schluter 15 September 2022
The Age, Good Food. High Tea at Yugen Tea Bar in Sth Yarra. Pic Simon Schluter 15 September 2022Supplied

The Langham Hotel High Tea, Southbank

The British High Tea is served with a twist at The Langham Hotel. Executive Pastry Chef, Markus Bohm delivers a selection of miniature sweet and savoury treats for guests and freshly-baked scones with cream and fruit preserves. The biggest hits of the tiered tower include the rock lobster cocktail tart and the beef burgundy pie with bush tomato chutney. Scones are served with chantilly cream and citrus curd.

Om Nom @ Adelphi Hotel

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High Tea at Om Nom inside the Adelphi Hotelnods to the Queen's love of horses (there's a life-size wire statue of her favourite animal in the centre called Neville). He'll be wearing a touch of purple in her honour for the weekend when you book in for High Tea. The venue is also creating a special Royal Tea on offer all weekend.

The Waiting Room, Crown

The lobby bar at Crown Towers now offers high tea from Friday to Sunday with variations on traditional offerings. Ditch the cut sandwiches for a different take on the British ritual. Two hours of bottomless Piper Heidsieck champagne is an option with two varieties of scones – traditional and raisin. There's a mix of cold savouries such as the Milawa goat cheese tart and warm lobster thermidor vol-au-vents.

NGV Tea Room, Level 1, NGV International

From high tea matched with French champagne to a children's tea party, the NGV Tea Room is also worth considering. Cut sandwiches with four fillings including smoked salmon and poached chicken feature heavily. Sweets include macarons, chocolate brownies and scones served with double cream.

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Jane RoccaJane Rocca is a regular contributor to Sunday Life Magazine, Executive Style, The Age EG, columnist and features writer at Domain Review, Domain Living’s Personal Space page. She is a published author of four books.
Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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