Fresh twists take panettone's popularity to new heights in Sydney (plus five to try)
Artisan bakers in Sydney are putting new-wave twists on panettone, causing the divisive Christmas classic to surge in popularity.
Sonoma Bakery pastry chef Alejandro Luna is changing up panettone's traditional fruit filling in favour of a decadent Belgian chocolate from Callebaut this holiday season. It's already a hit with Sydneysiders, with pre-orders suggesting the kitchen will be pushed to its 3000 panettone capacity.
"We're pushing the envelope of what traditional panettone is," he says.
"This isn't the panettone your grandmother buys in the supermarket, that gets passed from house to house."
The Italian fruit bread has suffered a long association with the dense, heavily-perfumed and preservative-heavy varieties imported from overseas, but it's creations such as Luna's which are slowly changing minds.
Making panettone the old-school way, as Sonoma does, requires up to three days of labour and additional recruits in the kitchen.
This year, the absence of dried fruit (and the mould-inhibitors that came along with it) has allowed the sensitive sourdough to flourish. The crumb is glossy, airy and more consistent than previous attempts.
Luna says this, in conjunction with "a lot of care and precision in managing the PH levels", has allowed the unique flavour of the sourdough culture to shine through in a "really authentic, artisanal way".
Tying up an entire kitchen with the complicated (and costly) 72 hour process of mixing, fermenting, hanging and baking is a step too far for many, however.
For their annual Christmas hamper, popular Sydney catering company Aplenty initially toyed with the idea of offering traditional panettone.
"I thought it would be cool to make something people can share and pull apart on Christmas day," says founder and maker Michaela Johansson.
"But it just seemed a bit too difficult."
Inspired by a love of babka and a neighbouring chef's innovative use of old tomato tins, Johansson compromised in creating 'babkattone': a spiced brioche dough, with Messina chocolate hazelnut spread, coiled up to bake in a 2.9kg can of Leggo's crushed tomatoes.
The result is fluffy, golden and tall, bearing a striking resemblance to panettone.
"We've had so many orders come through already and only have a couple of spaces left."
At Mona Vale bakery PotNonna, the panettone is the only item sole-operator Giuliane Mariga can't justify making from scratch. But that hasn't prevented the pastry chef from putting her own spin on it.
Mariga's panettone, imported from Italy, come elaborately "stuffed" and garnished with homemade chocolate ganache, tiramisu and brigadeiro (Brazillian fudge).
"It transforms them from an Italian bread-cake into a beautiful dessert you can put on the table for Christmas lunch," she says.
"I have to close orders sometimes because I become too busy with it."
Five panettone to try
Babkattone, Aplenty
The babkattone is "chocolatey and moist", says maker Michaela Johansson. She recommends heating slowly in the oven to warm it through for a group of up to 15 people, or toasting slices for individual serves. The Christmas treat is available as part of Aplenty's $130 hamper, which also includes oyster mignonette, Calabrian chilli butter and a pre-batched white negroni.
Chocolate panettone, Sonoma Bakery
This meticulously crafted chocolate panettone ($50) uses local honey, eggs and butter to create "that particular sweet profile with just the right amount of flavour and acidity", says executive pastry chef Alejandro Luna. He recommends cutting up little wedges, gently toasting them on an open sandwich press, then spreading on a little bit of salted butter.
Panettone gelato, Mapo Gelato
Mapo Gelato began serving scoops of its limited edition panettone gelato (from $5.50) this week. Director Matteo Pochintesta says the decadent ice cream is made using panettone from Betto's Deli "who makes very few of them in house, without any preservatives". It's blended with milk, cream, water and sugar to create a simple but flavourful offering.
Panettone negroni, Never Never Spirits
"If I had to choose between a real panettone or a panettone negroni ($70) on Christmas Day, I'm picking the cocktail," says Never Never co-founder Sean Baxter. This Christmas twist on the popular gin cocktail blends Never Never triple juniper gin with campari, Regal Rogue bold red vermouth, local aged muscat, orange curacao, rye distillate and vanilla bean.
Stuffed panettone, PotNonna
Instagram baker Giuliane Mariga blends her Brazillian heritage with traditional panettone when stuffing the 1kg Christmas treat with brigadeiro ($70). It's one of six flavours she's offering this holiday season, including tiramisu and brownie with St. Ali coffee ganache. Mariga recommends eating her panettone like a cake, with a scoop of ice cream for those with a sweet tooth.
instagram.com/potnonna
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign up- More:
- Restaurant news
Bianca Hrovat – Bianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.