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Golden Century to open offshoot at The Exchange at Darling Square

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

The iconic Golden Century seafood restaurant.
The iconic Golden Century seafood restaurant. Wolter Peeters

Japanese architect Kengo Kuma's circular landmark is taking shape on the site where a generation of Sydneysiders partied at the Entertainment Centre.

But it'll be an Australian-Chinese food giant that rocks the completed building.

Chinatown icon Golden Century will open a 180-seat restaurant mid-2019 at the building, The Exchange at Darling Square.

Lunar New Year 2018 celebrations.
Lunar New Year 2018 celebrations.Supplied
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A circular building on a square will no doubt get the feng shui experts involved, but Good Food hears it won't carry the famed Golden Century shingle.

Billy Wong, the son of Golden Century owners Eric and Linda Wong, will front a new concept for the group.

He says the yet-to-be named restaurant will be primarily Cantonese, but draw on "elements" of other Chinese regions and hit a younger demographic with a contemporary approach.

Billy Wong says the new project will be a family affair.
Billy Wong says the new project will be a family affair. Belinda Rolland

Wong grew up at Golden Century, which his parents relocated from Hong Kong to operate.

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"It's where I did my homework at one of the back tables or in a little room … the restaurant will have its 30th anniversary next year," he says.

A magnet for Sydney chefs, Golden Century is also a favourite of global superstars such as chef Ferran Adria, a regular there when he's in Australia.

Eric Wong of the Golden Century. The family will open a 180-seat restaurant mid-2019 at Darling Square.
Eric Wong of the Golden Century. The family will open a 180-seat restaurant mid-2019 at Darling Square. Jim Rice

Wong, who worked in financial services before joining the family business several years ago, says the new restaurant will be a family affair.

"My brother Alex, who works in Hong Kong as a designer, will do the interior," he says.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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