Grumpy Baker brings Israeli-inspired menu and bakery goods to Bilpin

Opening a glistening new food venue right now might feel a little like swinging open the doors on Wall Street in 1919 or 1929.

Throw in the added complication that it is in the middle of the isolated Bells Line of Road and the equation becomes even more problematic.

The traffic flow might've slowed to a trickle with the government's new measures, but it hasn't stopped Michael Cthurmer rolling out his Israeli-inspired menu and bakery goods at the new Grumpy Baker.

An offshoot of his successful business in Sydney's eastern suburbs, Cthurmer and his wife Deborah have taken up residence in Hanlon's Hardware Store, next to the historic service station in Bilpin.

The couple, who have ties to the area with their equine-assisted therapy farmstay, Eden Farm Escape by Eden Equine, will focus on locals in its opening months.

And the locals are keen. Sean Moran, the chef-owner at Bondi stalwart Sean's Panaroma, has a property in the area.

"We've needed a bakery in the village, it's good news," he says.

Cthurmer says: "Bilpin is a second home to my family and we're proud to be part of this dynamic, small community which is rebuilding following the fires."

He has plans to open a farm supplies store next door in a few months, with a "lolly shop" possibly following. In the meantime, sweet-tooths can tuck into his pastries.

The rest of Bilpin can grab a loaf of sourdough or a Middle-Eastern pie.