Hightail it to Highroad

Dickson has long been known for good value, mostly Asian food at competitive prices in family friendly surrounds. SubUrban occupied the big corner spot at the city end of the strip for over a decade and there has been plenty of speculation over what would fill the space. Enter Highroad...

Dinners have started more recently, building on the solid morning trade that has been building in recent months. About half way between gastro pub and restaurant the menu is concise and modern, with an emphasis on bold flavours and hints of the Middle East and a refreshing absence of pub standards - there's not a schnitty in sight. 

Booth tables carved out of waves of layered pale timber are a lovely feature in the airy, high-ceilinged space that has emerged from a comprehensive remodelling. Run by the people behind ONA coffee, brekkie is seriously good, and the staff are eager to please and polished. 

It is an evil thing to do but the sweet potato crisps ($6) are impossible to resist at the outset. A bowl piled high with light-as-a-feather crisps, just cooked and spritzed with salt and vinegar, are the ultimate beer/wine snack. These are a real cut above what is becoming a standard menu item, and light enough to add to your order without ruining your appetite.  

Serious food includes salmon rilettes ($16), eggplant and tahini caramel ($29), beef sirloin with green beans ($28) and an iceberg lettuce salad ($9) to share for mains. 

A flavoursome piece of beef is grilled medium rare to order, sliced and surrounded by green beans and a terrific spicy sauce. Abundant and bold, this is a great dish to share, and is seriously good value. On a really big night the huge pork knuckle looks terrific, standing tall on passing plates, and we will be back to try it. 

Creamy salmon mousse (not quite what we were expecting, it was called rilettes) come atop a slice of the fluffy focaccia, with a lovely thatch of herbs. A good light dish, the flavours are great, the bread a little dominant. 

Lovely narrow eggplants are grilled to a charry crisp, the silky flesh contrasted very nicely with the nutty tahini caramel, and scattered crunchy bits. Glasses of Hochkirch rose ($9) come off a solid and diverse list. 

Juice is freshly squeezed and sparkling water is free - nice touches. 

Iceberg lettuce has been much abused but not here. The dressing is lightly creamy with buttermilk, giving the lovely crispy leaves body - little touches of sweetness and crunch come courtesy of semi-dried cherries and almonds - this is a terrific, ample side dish. 

Basil and lime granita for dessert is terrific, clean and sweet and a perfect end to the meal. 

Highroad has made an impressive start, the word has well and truly spread about the great brekkies, now dinner is the next big thing. Young, modern, fun, tasty and friendly, it is a great addition to the Dickson strip.