One of Fitzroy North’s biggest pubs is back open with new owners and an ex-MoVida chef

Northsiders travelling along Nicholson Street in Fitzroy North may have spotted the Royal Oak Hotel's recent switch from lime-green facade to a more classic cream-and-burgundy palette.

It's one of many changes ushered in by the pub's new operators, who are channelling Australiana inside, underpinned by a solid Euro menu.

The new team includes Will Benjamin, Cal Hitchens and Ryan Crick, from a group of publicans also behind Marquis of Lorne in Fitzroy and Richmond's Union House.

Scott Stevenson (ex MoVida, Pei Modern) is on board as both partner and executive chef. He's drawing on three years as MoVida's head chef, applying it to a retro-styled daily specials board that might feature whole sole with bisque sauce or oysters Rockefeller.

"You're going to be drawn back here regularly because [the board's] going to be ever-evolving," Stevenson says.

Specials join the core menu of grilled leeks with gribiche, baba ghanoush with crudites, plus mains such as pork sausages with cavolo nero and lentils. Schnitzels, steaks and beer-battered fish are there, too.

Lyndon Kubis (The Alps, Milton Wine Shop) has written a list of vibrant Australian and European wines spanning Andre Clouet to Frankland Estate.

Aside from original wall tiles, two fireplaces and the dining room carpet, there's little remaining of the previous fit-out. But jarrah floorboards, textured glass pendant lights and leather-topped tables and stools give the renovated pub a lived-in feel, as does the sweeping jarrah bar.

Benjamin says a book called Australian Art Deco Hotels was a big source of inspiration. Large 70s-style vases with native flowers and paintings that show sunburnt landscapes complete the look across the large front bar and the rear dining room.

Open Mon-Thu 4pm-late, Fri-Sun noon-late

442 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy North, 03 9481 4693