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Pyrmont's Quick Brown Fox opens pop-up taqueria Buen Taco

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Buen Taco by QBF is serving up birria tacos, which come with their own dipping broth.
Buen Taco by QBF is serving up birria tacos, which come with their own dipping broth.Steven Woodburn

Sydney hospitality operators have picked over the bones of last year's lockdown, rebooting 2021 versions of the pivot.

Some venues jumped in where they left off, others have decided they lose less money remaining shut, while Pyrmont cafe Quick Brown Fox Eatery has chosen a different fork in the road.

"Last year we set up a little grocer in the back," says Quick Brown Fox co-owner Ben Calabro.

Chicken tinga tacos are on the opening menu.
Chicken tinga tacos are on the opening menu.Steven Woodburn
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"I wouldn't do it again. It taught me a lesson that they [groceries] are a big-volume business. But it also showed locals really want to support their community."

This time, QBF will open a pop-up taqueria, the evening pivot they've long wanted to do, lockdown or no lockdown.

Calabro and partner Anna Mavromatis are confirmed fans of Mexican food. Calabro says over the past year they've consumed just about every video they could find online on the subject.

Ben Calabro and Anna Mavromatis are long-term Mexican food fans.
Ben Calabro and Anna Mavromatis are long-term Mexican food fans.Steven Woodburn

"I took the idea to [chef] Regan Bagshaw and he was like a kid in a candy store. He wants to do everything properly, low and slow," Calabro adds.

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The opening menu includes a birria taco, the internet-busting slow-cooked shredded beef "wet taco" that comes with its own dipping broth. "Eating it is a bit theatrical," he says.

Pop-up taqueria Buen Taco by QBF will kick-start next week and run until October.

Open Wed-Sat 5pm-9.30pm.

22 Union Street, Pyrmont, 02 9660 6345, quickbrownfoxeatery.com.au

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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