'The story of this lockdown is community': Chefs transition to takeaway as Sydney rallies

When Jovan Curic relaunched Pub Life Kitchen, he didn't imagine COVID-19 restrictions would hit just three weeks in, nor the overwhelming support he would receive from the Pyrmont community after the news broke.

In a previous life, PLK was the go-to spot for one of the best burgers in Sydney. Curic operates PLK out of the Lord Wolseley in Pyrmont with a new menu that pays homage to his Serbian heritage, with two burgers revived for old times' sake.

Because of the COVID-19 restrictions in Greater Sydney, chefs and restaurateurs have been forced to choose between closing entirely, or opening at a limited capacity that will prevent many from breaking even.

Curic knows the cost of operating a hospitality business at a time like this but decided providing economic stability for his staff and limiting food waste was more important than the business's profits for now.

He acknowledges he's fortunate to be able to think like this because PLK isn't his only revenue stream.

"We have [fewer] than 10 employees and our costs aren't that high because we're new so it was an easier decision for me than most because I have another job," he said.

Curic is overwhelmed by the way the inner-city community has banded together to support his business. From neighbourhood WhatsApp groups and Facebook pages to hand-drawn community flyers, the people of Pyrmont and Ultimo are doing all they can to ensure PLK isn't forced to close because of the economic consequences of this lockdown.

"I received a text today with a photo of a flyer someone has gone to the effort of drawing and slipping under people's doors in support of us … they may have spelt 'restaurant' wrong but it's the thought that counts. I feel so emotional about the support, I get shivers," he said.

"For me, the story of this lockdown is community and I wish the government and media would focus more on it," he said.

Curic's menu is full of locally sourced produce such as meat from Marrickville's Whole Beast Butchery, bread from Providence Bakery and cheese from local producers such as Vannella.

"For the first couple of days, we dropped main meals to $15 and burgers to $10 so we could avoid any food waste. It's great knowing the community has really rallied behind us and it means we don't have to muck any of the producers around. They have families to feed too," he said.

Curic is passionate about injecting his Serbian influence into the new menu. "We've got my mother making baklava and my mother-in-law cooking white bean stew, we're trying to do a style of Balkan food that's not been done on the produce side of stuff before," he said.

When Vincenzo Mazzotta first heard news of Sydney's lockdown last Saturday, he didn't know what to do. "Restaurants can't be profitable in this environment but retaining my staff and paying their wages won out," he said.

He's noticed a shift in consumer behaviour since before the pandemic.

"Business is better now than it was in 2019 because people are craving luxury and that whole package experience when dining out," he said.

One of the ways Cucinetta is trying to keep that sense of luxury with its temporary takeaway menu is by offering a decadent lobster pasta that starts at $250.

"It's $400 per kilo so the price varies depending on what size you want," Mazzotta said.

Scandinavian influenced restaurant Bar Suze had only been open for two months before the lockdown was announced.

"It was a bit of a shock to the system, but we're managing," co-owner Greg Bampton said.

The Surry Hills based business has transitioned into a kind of Scandinavian fish and chips shop, serving takeaway options and selling bottles of natural wine to be enjoyed at home.

"We're just staying positive and trying to use the time to experiment with ideas and embrace the change the best way we can," he said.