Three bottles of sauvignon blanc from the Adelaide Hills

When Aussies think of sauvignon blanc, they probably think first of New Zealand. But sauvignon blanc is our second-most important white variety in planted hectares, after chardonnay. We produce less than the Kiwis, but it's still a very important grape.

Unhappily, it's often one of the most disappointing to taste: there's a lot of dross out there. Many are green or diluted, made from overcropped​ vines, lacking flavour intensity. Many are sweetened to cover up their shortcomings.

These three wines possess extra intensity of ripe fruit flavour. And coming from the Adelaide Hills, which suffered terrible fires leading up to the 2020 harvest, they'd appreciate our support.

Geoff Weaver Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Adelaide Hills, $25

Score 92

An extra year makes a world of difference, giving the wine time to settle down. It's a far cry from the pungent tropical, passionfruit savvies, instead suggesting dried herbs, dried flowers and crushed-rock minerality. It's lean and elegant in the mouth with savoury dryness, good intensity and a finish that's dry and very long. An excellent food wine. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockists include Winesquare and Kent Street Cellars (NSW); Nick's Wine Merchants (Vic).

Wirra Wirra Hiding Champion Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Adelaide Hills, $25

Score 92

It's just a baby, but has superior concentration and palate length. Yeasty young-wine aromas overlay bright lemony fruit, the taste crisp and lively. It's light on its feet, with well harmonised fruit and acidity. Refreshing finish. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to four years.

Stockists include Clarinda Cellars, Clayton South (Vic); Red Bottle, Alexandria (NSW).

Nova Vita Firebird Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Adelaide Hills, $20

Score 92

From a promising newer producer, this delicious wine overdelivers. There are fresh, clean, grassy and lemony aromas, typical of the grape, and a trace of lemon acid-drop confectionery. In the mouth, there's extra intensity, freshness and persistence. Screw-cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to four years.

Stockists include Vine Providore of Fine Wine, Redfern (NSW); Rathdowne Cellars, Carlton North (Vic).