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Tipo 00 team open Brunswick East deli and wine shop Grana

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Cheeses by Lucy Whitlow, pastry chef across the Tipo 00 group of restaurants, are available to take home for the first time.
Cheeses by Lucy Whitlow, pastry chef across the Tipo 00 group of restaurants, are available to take home for the first time.Eddie Jim

The Tipo 00 crew have switched on the lights at Grana, their wine shop and delicatessen adjoining Figlia pizzeria in Brunswick East. The slender space stocks a first-class line-up of charcuterie, wine, tinned fish, olive oil and other goodies, as well as cheese from in-house fromager Lucy Whitlow.

Whitlow, the executive pastry chef at Tipo and its siblings, started nerding out with curds during Melbourne's 2020 lockdowns, going from homespun enthusiast to supplying the group's restaurants.

Now her cheeses are on proud display in the humidity controlled fridges that line one wall of Grana. Two tommes are currently for sale - a miso and an orange-rind wrapped variety - as well as mandarins filled with Whitlow's ricotta, a fun alternative to adding a soft cheese to a board.

Joining Whitlow's Wheels (the name of her business) are about 15 others, including buffalo mozzarella, Comte and fior di latte, from Italy, France, Switzerland and closer to home.

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Charcuterie includes locally made capocollo, salsiccia Sarda salami from Byron Bay's Salumi Australia and items from South Australia's Parma Smallgoods. Bread is from Ovens Street Bakery in Brunswick.

"If you're going to someone's house for dinner or lunch, we want to be that shop you pop in to to get everything you need," says Luke Skidmore, co-owner of Grana along with partners Andreas Papadakis and Alberto Fava.

The wine selection is vast and covers all corners of the map, with an emphasis on minimal intervention winemaking. Vermouth also joins the party.

In a couple of weeks, tastings will happen on Saturday mornings and, next year, masterclasses may be run in the space.

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While plans for panini and coffee were initially floated, the team have decided to focus on Grana as a grocer. Filter coffee by Ona will be available, though.

Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-7pm.

331 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, granadeli.com

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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