Gewurztraminer, the German grape variety that loves spicy food

Imbibing solo in wine bars is thrilling. A gal never knows what she'll encounter. A recent trip to Tasmania sated the desire for exploring streets and beverages previously unexplored. At new Hobart bar Lupin, chef and owner Jyoti Bindu served exquisite prawn toast alongside the Made by Monks 2020 Turning of the Fagus Gewurztraminer ($38, 12.5 per cent alcohol). The wine, made by Tasmanian Luke Monks, was exploration via the bottle.

Monks makes lo-fi drops in a Hobart shed using a mixed bag of varieties including semillon, chardonnay, pinot gris, riesling, syrah, pinot noir and gewurztraminer. The latter (pronounced "guh-vertz-trah-mee-ner") delivers aromatics that ricochet out of the glass like the contents of a bean bag burst at the seams. Zesty tangelo and flirty florals dance in the air. The punchy aromatics are typical of the German white grape variety, also widely used in Alsace, France.

Monks' version delivers a bright orange hue and tart finish thanks to spending three months in contact with grape skins during winemaking.

He sourced fruit from a grower in Tamar Valley. "Unfortunately, the fruit is in such high demand that I couldn't get more in 2021 but I've secured a little plot this year so there's more to come," says Monks.

He was drawn to the variety many years ago, initially because of the name. "We're lucky here in Tasmania in that a lot of German varieties were planted here with the classics. I soon discovered its beautiful aromatics and colour. It also yields well, and is relatively easy to grow because it suffers less disease pressure." What Monks loves most is its versatility. "Gewurztraminer comes in many guises. You can really be creative with it. It is a blank canvas."

The aggressive flavours and aromatics mean it can also handle a decent amount of flavour when paired with food. Think Asian spices, crunchy grilled prawns, or robust cheeses.

In his book What Varietal is That?, wine enthusiast Darby Higgs describes gewurztraminer as a misunderstood variety. "It is the aroma that convinces [people] that the wine is sweet and therefore not worth tasting," he says. Don't let the aromatic explosion fool you. Done well, the variety is full of surprises. Made by Monks doesn't have a website but you can find Luke's handiwork at hospo hub Tom McHugo's Hobart Hotel, Melbourne's Blackhearts and Sparrows, Sydney's P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants, and through online retailers DRNKS (drnks.com).

Pro tip Like the name, 2021 Ochota Barrels Weird Berries In The Woods Gewurztraminer is magical. It's also extremely difficult to find. But act fast and you'll find it at online retailer Notwasted. $37, notwasted.com.au

Three to try

The Honky Chateau 2021 Tootsie Gee Whiz Gewurztraminer from Victoria's Yarra Valley is a zippy, grapefruit-packed number. $30, 11.9 per cent alcohol. honkychateauwine.com

For something zippy, try the La Violetta 2021 Ü Rock Dots Gewurztraminer Riesling Grauburgunder from Great Southern, WA. $39, 12.5 per cent alcohol, laviolettawines.com.au

The Robert Stein 2021 Gewurztraminer (from Mudgee, NSW) is a beautiful example full of depth and a hint of Turkish delight. $30, 12 per cent alcohol, robertstein.com.au