Ambergris Hotel pub-bistro opens in a heritage building in Geelong

In the heart of town, Ambergris is equal parts pub and bistro, combining gold rush heritage features with the fresh approach of young chef Jackson Wilde.

He's serving Western Plains pork belly with pipis and XO broth and a tart of chevre and heirloom tomatoes, but there's also a dressed-up chicken parmigiana that features a crumbed free-range chicken breast with cheese fondant and sugo.

"We're trying to source the best things we can, without putting a super-intense fine-dining spin on them," says Wilde. "It's a local pub in the end."

For the past three years, Wilde has cooked for skiers and hikers at Mount Hotham; his early career was spent at Coda and Tonka. He's excited to be working closer to where he grew up – Ocean Grove – with access to Bellarine Peninsula produce.

Ambergris is the fulfilment of a dream by sommelier David Ellis, also a local, of opening his own restaurant in one of Geelong's remaining historic buildings.

When the site became available, he pounced, highlighting its 1860s features with a heritage colour scheme, a bar fronted by pressed tin and Chesterfield couches.

An outdoor area is fringed by vines while inside, small dining areas and other nooks make the 60-seat venue feel extra intimate.

Ellis, who has experience at Donovan's and Campbell Point House, on the Bellarine Peninsula, intends to build a far-reaching wine list, making the most of a bluestone cellar.

Open Fri-Tues 3pm-late, 189 Moorabool Street, Geelong, 0412 709 519, ambergrishotel.au