One of Melbourne’s most rated wine bars has suddenly closed, but it’ll return soon (with some changes)

Parcs, the tiny CBD wine bar that took its name from the word “scrap” reversed, suddenly closed at the weekend, leaving fans of its low-waste cooking devastated and scrambling to get one last meal in. But the shock announcement via social media on Friday also left many question marks.

The Instagram post stated that Parcs “will return” and “with fresh faces”. But how? And where?

Good Food understands that the restaurant is staying put. But its mastermind, chef Dennis Yong, has moved on, along with several team members, leaving big shoes to fill.

The former Sunda chef opened Parcs on Little Collins Street in early 2022 as an outlet for his fermentation-led experiments that turned food waste into delicious new products.

Must-try dishes included the Hokkien noodle-based umami e pepe driven by a bread scrap miso, oysters with mango kombucha dressing, and fried rice headlined by fermented cos leaves, Sichuan pickled cabbage or other rescued veg.

The owners of Sunda, Parcs and Aru – some of Melbourne’s most boundary-pushing restaurants – say they expect to announce a new chef this week and will be sticking to the low-waste philosophy. The restaurant’s name will also be unchanged.

The new hire will need to deliver the same ethos that earned Parcs high praise, and very nearly a chef’s hat, when Michael Harden reviewed it for Good Food last year. He applauded Yong for “using the alchemy of fermentation, a deft palate, serious cooking skills and a big dose of wit” to turn compost items “into something utterly delicious and original”.

Apparently, Yong had been planning his departure for some time but the team decided to make an announcement in the team’s final 24 hours, in line with the playful, casual personality of the restaurant.

While the doors are closed, Parcs will get a minor facelift, although nothing substantial will change in the slightly grungy space for 25, which features many upcycled or repurposed elements.

An official statement from the owners reads: “After one year of wild experimentation, the original team of our incubator operation, PARCS, will be hanging up their aprons and handing over the reins.

“Dennis and the team are moving onto different things, and we wish them all the best and thank them for their commitment and for giving PARCS a great run.

“We’ll be holding on to the space and the ethos, and will be in touch with more news on what’s happening with the venue in the future.”

The group, which also owns Hotel Windsor, has just hired Damien Neylon (ex-Brae and Mugaritz, Spain), who, as executive chef at the heritage Spring Street hotel, will gradually change its dining offer.