Collins Quarter

Almost Tardis-like, a nondescript Collins Street doorway opens to reveal a long, sleek bar and a generous courtyard, which fills to overflowing with suits and high heels looking to ease the cares of the day. Smart design means you can flee the rowdiness by ducking into one of the semi-enclosed booths along one wall. As befits the clientele, Collins Quarter offers clever, upmarket versions of pub classics. The burger comes with gruyere in a brioche bun, chicken schnitzel boasts a rosemary and parmesan crumb crust, and fennel and pork sausages sit alongside a lentil, caper and roast capsicum salad. There are also genuine fine-dining efforts, such as a generous slab of confit pork belly with creamy cauliflower puree and roasted baby beetroot, plus drinking snacks of chicken wings and charcuterie plates. It's all cheerfully presented, deftly produced and well priced, complemented by a serious wine list and an exhaustive range of spirits. A worthy city drinking hole.