Duchess of Spotswood

Royalty resides in unlikely places. On this slow-to-gentrify strip, the Duchess broke new ground for the west. A few years on, there are some rumblings of revolt (the dining space is a tight squeeze; some portions are on the small side) but the pun-tastic, Brit-leaning menu is still exciting (offal and all), and the quality of produce and presentation undeniable. For breakfast, ‘Simple Pleasures’ sings of spring, with asparagus, broad beans and goat’s curd accompanying perfectly poached eggs. The equally pretty ‘Prince of Wales’ serves a sizeable slab of house-smoked salmon on farro and white beans alongside its eggs.