The Good Food guide to eating and drinking in Torquay

Torquay, on the lands of the Wadawurrung people, marks the beginning of the Great Ocean Road – one of the country’s most spectacular scenic drives – but that’s no reason to hurry through.

Surfers flock here for cerulean waves of both the forgiving and widow-making variety (including at world-famous Bells Beach), as evidenced by a sea of surf-gear shops. In recent years, a small yoga and wellness scene has flourished – but so has opposition to increasing development in the area as sea-changers drift in. Whether you’re here for the day, the waves, or the long run, here’s some of the best eating and drinking to be found in Torquay and surrounds.

For coffee

All retro signage, brown-and-orange vintage furniture and laid-back surfside service, Mavis Mavis is a little coffee shop that punches well above its weight. The serene team brews New Zealand’s Allpress Espresso, and batch brew comes in groovy branded mugs. The chopped-egg and bacon toastie alone could keep this place in business: simple, satisfying and topped with flaky sea salt.

Shop 1, 9 Gilbert Street, Torquay, instagram.com/mavis_coffeeshop

For a wholesome breakfast

There’s no shortage of cafes along the Torquay foreshore if a beachside seat is a top morning priority, but you’re more likely to find the locals at Ginger Monkey, a low-key brunch spot tucked away in the back streets. Expect a wholesome, mostly vegetarian spread that might include nasi goreng and huevos rancheros, and good espresso by Melbourne’s Proud Mary. The best seat in the house is on the spacious front deck, under the cascading purple wisteria.

4 Baines Crescent, Torquay, gingermonkeycafe.com

For (briefly) living the sea-change dream

So, towering oceanside resorts aren’t your bag? The Hideaway, a bohemian beach cabin, might be your speed. It’s located a 10-minute walk from Torquay, just 200 metres from the beach, is pet-friendly and sleeps six. Surfboards and bikes cater to adventurists, and there’s an outdoor shower and a cubby house for the kids in the yard. There’s even a well-appointed kitchen – a rarity in the Airbnb age – and a wood-fired pizza oven.

Address provided on booking, riparide.com/listings/5335

For cracking fish and chips

Ask Google Maps where to get your fish ‘n’ chip fix and you may be sent elsewhere, but the summer crowds heave heaviest at Bell Street Fish and Chips for good reason. Fresh flathead, flake (gummy shark) and whiting come encased in shattery batter, and the chips are never soggy. Hot paper parcel in tow, head to a lookout nearby and watch the waves roll in as the car windows steam up. It’s so busy at times that the phone goes unanswered – just another sign pointing to yes – so it’s best to just show up.

32A Bell Street, Torquay, bellstfishandchips.com.au

For local produce

Every Saturday morning for the past 15 years, Torquay Farmers Market has served the local community. Head to the car park by the council offices and start with a gourmet pie or gozleme, then peruse stalls dedicated to cheese, bread, honey, gin, tomatoes, walnuts, olives, salami, wine, tea, spices and more. Free-range meat, a greengrocer and a pet food stall mean a week’s worth of groceries can be secured without stepping foot in a supermarket.

1 Merrijig Drive, Torquay, facebook.com/TorquayFarmersMarket

For small-footprint shopping

If the farmers’ market doesn’t suit your schedule, boutique grocer Peachs is open every day except Sunday with similar wares. Rustic wooden barrels overflow with colourful fruit and vegetables, some of it organic and all sourced from nearby growers. Fridges are stacked with ready meals, takeaway salads, fresh pasta, meat and gourmet baked goods. It’s pricier than the supermarket, but that extra coin gets you a snapshot of the region, all in one place.

132 Surf Coast Highway, Torquay, peachstorquay.com.au

For a taste of the next generation of culinary talent

Sail from drinks on the balcony at two-hatted Moonah, overlooking ducks on a billabong framed by moonah trees, to one of a handful of tables in a sparsely decorated room. You may well be served by Tobin Kent, the inspired young chef who grew the Dutch cream potato that’s cooked in seawater and topped with snapper floss and pilpil (salt cod and garlic) sauce. He also grew the blood plums for the sorbet that’s served with goat’s curd and garnished with fennel pollen and candied orange. It’s one of the best things you’ll sink a spoon into this year. Book well in advance.

95 Minya Lane, Connewarre, moonahrestaurant.com.au

For local wines and craft beer

For the strongest representation of the region’s wineries, skip the big-chain bottle-os and head to family-run Corks Crew Cellars, which just celebrated its 20th birthday. Staff might steer you towards a gamay by Rowsley Fault, where the vines grow over limestone, or a peppery pinot noir from Heroes in the Otways. See also: the impressive craft beer selection, and a new section dedicated to natural wines from Latta, Konpira Maru et al.

5 Bristol Road, Torquay, corkscrew.net.au

For beachfront dining

In a space that’s as bright and summery as the giant glowing orb in the sky, The Kyn is a dream for post-dip dining. The buzzy beachside restaurant-slash-bar leans Middle Eastern with dishes such as slow-roasted lamb shoulder with pilaf and labne, while cocktails tend to be on the sweeter side. If you can find anything wrong in the world with a coconut margarita and a plate of school prawns straight from the sea, you’ve got bigger problems.

41 The Esplanade, Torquay, thekyn.com.au

For cheeseboard supplies

Small-batch cheesemonger Fromage and Legumes rarely opens its Torquay doors to walk-in customers (exceptions are made in the lead-up to Christmas and Easter). Instead, you’ll text owner Eva Kainz or place an order online for her organic cow and goat cheeses. Everything is made in-house or sourced from regional Victoria, from the super-soft brie to the nutty vintage cheddar. And if you want to go big, there’s a dramatic cheese tower that serves 40.

2 Beachcomber Lane, Torquay, fromageandlegumes.com

For blending in with the locals

Swell Foods has been refuelling Torquay and Jan Juc’s early morning surf scene for 25 years. Open from 6am, it’s celebrated as much for its Double Roll – two eggs, double bacon, cheese and barbecue sauce on a milk bun – as for its easygoing staff, shelves of ceramics and fancy sunscreens, and location just far enough from the beach to walk the sand off your feet. A chocolate and peanut butter protein shake and a giant freckle to-go will provide what’s needed to hit the waves again tomorrow.

Stuart Avenue, Jan Juc, swellfoodscafe.com.au

For an all-ages pasta feast

Thanks to a mid-2023 update, Mortadeli is not only home to Torquay’s (and perhaps the Surf Coast’s) most serious deli for all things delicious and European, it’s now also an enoteca dripping with retro charm. Slide into a booth with the fam for crunchy on the outside, oozy on the inside toasted mozzarella en carozza, then take your pick of that day’s pasta. It might be shells coated in a sauce of chopped prawns, cime di rapa, tomato and anchovy, but there’s always kid-friendly spaghetti and napoli sauce. Olive oil martinis, negronis on tap and superb local wines add to the fun.

Shop 8, 4-6 Gilbert Street, Torquay, mortadeli.com.au

For a true farm-to-table experience

Common Ground Project, a regenerative farm 15 minutes from Torquay, is hosting a series of dinners ($90 a head) by hot Melbourne restaurants over January. The farm’s owners, Melbourne hospitality outfit Mulberry Group, are bringing three of their venues to the farm to cook with the latest haul from the plots.

The hatted Hazel (January 12-13) will make the most of summer’s tomatoes, Dessous (Jan 19-20) will pair farm greens with barramundi and more, and Lilac Wine Bar (Jan 26-27) will deliver its signature snacks alongside radishes and ferments. Those keen to do a farm tour before dinner can add one to their booking.

Bookings and info at events.humanitix.com/host/common-ground-project