Traditionalists look away now. Our pick of the hot cross buns are looking very different this Easter

Easter looks a little different this year in Melbourne, and not just because it still feels like summer. Croissants piped with crosses, cakes that look like buns but aren’t, and buns that have crossed over into babka territory are nearly as common as old-school hot cross buns on bakery shelves.

Freeing the Easter treat from its fruity, spiced shackles is nothing new: chocolate buns are now expected, while the major supermarkets have snuck Pizza Shapes, Caramilk and more into their recipes. But now artisan bakers are joining in.

“There are many people who do not like raisins or dried fruit, and their only other option for past five to 10 years was chocolate,” says Jonathan Camilleri, who owns Abbotsford bakery JC Patisserie Boulangerie.

Balancing reinvention with deliciousness, bakers are creating not-cross buns that are more than just the edible equivalent of clickbait. They actually taste good.

The traditional spices of cinnamon and nutmeg are being worked into croissant dough for a different textural experience. Some are even ditching the bun form altogether and making hot cross bun-flavoured mash-ups from lamingtons to lattes.

“People started to be more creative because they realised that buns bring back lots of memories,” Camilleri says. All those new flavours mean “everyone in the family can find something they like” and be part of an Easter tradition.

Along with making six different flavours of buns, Camilleri has also created a hot cross bun-flavoured croissant cereal. A bit like what would happen if the hotel breakfast buffet met a science experiment on Easter Sunday, each 150-gram bag contains tiny croissants made extra-crunchy with a cinnamon glaze, just like the breakfast cereals marketed at kids. It takes an hour to roll just one bag of the 50¢-piece-sized pastries, which can be served with milk or eaten on their own.

Croissants are one of the more popular vehicles of Easter tradition this year. Agathe Patisserie owner Agathe Kerr says the pastry works well with a hot cross bun’s flavour.

“Butter is an amazing carrier for spices, and the smell in the shop when these croissants bake is divine,” she says.

A cube-shaped croissant hiding traditional hot cross bun flavours was a way for Rizka Puspita’s Flemington bakery Croixssant to stand out from the crowd this Easter.

She believes bakers have acquired more courage to break the mould due to the growth of food influencers on social media.

“They will opt for something a bit crazy, experimental and bold,” she says.

“It’s good, I think. We’re not really stuck in tradition. Bakers have the courage to break the wall, to put our creativity out there and see what people think of it.”

HOT CROSSOVER BUNS

Hot cross cake

You might think you’re getting a regular six-pack of hot cross buns at Le Yeahllow, but you’d be wrong. It’s a hot cross cake! The visual sleight of hand is achieved with whipped ganache and a piping bag, and we can confirm that it makes eating an Easter “bun” 200 per cent more fun. Beneath its supermodel looks, though, there’s plenty of the hot cross bun you know and love, including strong nutmeg notes and a very fluffy sponge cake interior. $13.50 each, whole cakes from $75 at Le Yeahllow in South Yarra or Melbourne CBD, leyeahllow.com.au

Babka buns

Is this treat from Ruben’s Deli a scroll? Is it a morning bun? Or is it a babka? No one in our office who set eyes on the magnificent looking cake could decide – but all of them gasped. It’s a showstopper, alright, destined for a high-impact end to Easter lunch (or start to brunch). The same could be said of how it tastes: buttery and sweet, big on candied orange peel and ultra-sticky, it’s from the more is more school of Easter. $9 each or wheel of six for $40. Available from March 22 to March 29 in-store (King’s Arcade, 978 High Street, Armadale) or via phone order.

Hot cross-ington

In case you hadn’t noticed, hot cross buns aren’t the only square bake on the block. The crew at Tokyo Lamington did though, and decided it was time for a hot cross lam’. Baking spices are worked into the sponge cake, cream filling and crumb on the outside, with mixed fruit replacing the layer of jam. An excellent example of when thinking inside the square works. $7.50 each, 258 Elgin Street, Carlton, tokyolamington.com

Gelato bun-wich

Two of life’s best hand-held treats − ice-cream sandwiches and hot cross buns − become one at Pidapipo gelato shop. Returning for a second Easter, this year’s choices include a chocolate hot cross bun cradling a scoop of milk chocolate gelato threaded with amarena cherry, or a spiced bun with raisins and honey, filled with blueberry jam gelato. The buns, like the gelato, are made in-house. Not quite traditional, but not too crazy either, could this be the Goldilocks of the crossover buns? $12 each or $39.50 for six buns and 1L gelato tub. Available at Pidapipo Laboratorio, 429-431 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, pidapipo.com

HOT CROISS BUNS

Love everything about a hot cross bun except the bun part? Bakeries, including Agathe Patisserie, have heard your prayers and responded with hot “croiss-ants”.

The French-owned patisserie incorporates spices including cassia (stronger than cinnamon) and ginger into the dough. Tucked inside the croissant is a sultana and citrus-spiked marzipan. With all the toasty spices and citrus peel you love but 500 times more crunch, these have enough traditional flavour to make you feel like they’re still an acceptable Easter treat. $9 each, available at South Melbourne or Melbourne CBD, shop.agathe.com.au

The crazy cats at Croixssant went for a cube shape because – well, why not? It fits right into their left field pastry range, but one bite reveals a classic flavour profile. Creme diplomat infused with sultanas, cinnamon and allspice, with a marmalade glaze on the outside, complete the hot cross bun illusion. $9 each, available in-store at 185 Mt Alexander Road, Flemington, croixssant.com.au

HOT NOT BUNS

Hot cross cereal

Say hello to croissant cereal, a very silly, very expensive childhood treat for adults, up there with avocado toast as the most unnecessary splurge you could make before 9am. Inspired by a US$50 ($76) box of cereal he saw in New York, JC Patisserie Boulangerie owner Jonathan Camilleri decided to bring it to Melbourne. He and his team roll out croissants using just two fingers, then dehydrate them and dip each one into a sugary glaze for an extra hit of nostalgia. Every bowl is crunchy, sweet and ultra-buttery, says Camilleri. A special version is coming for the Easter weekend, set to be a fruity, cinnamon-latte party for your mouth. $35 for 150g. Available on Friday March 29 at 17 Henry Street, Abbotsford, jcpatisserieboulangerie.com

Hot cross latte

Hot cross superfans might want to get themselves to St Ali for the perfect coffee to go with a fresh bun. The leading Melbourne roaster (and fearless creator of kooky iced drinks) are bringing the good times to Easter with a hot cross bun latte. In the cup is raisin spice syrup, made in-house, Ethiopia Natural espresso and a light sprinkle of cinnamon. $10 each. Available until April 1 at St Ali in South Melbourne and Melbourne CBD, stali.com.au

HOT NEW FLAVOURS

When a pastry chef meets a hot cross bun, you’d better believe that rules will be broken. Lumos Bakery is going all-out for its first Easter in business, offering not one, not two, but five different bun flavours. Thrillseekers will go straight for the white chocolate and raspberry, filled with chantilly cream and sporting a pink cross ($6 ea). Trendsetters might order the pistachio, made with a lightly spiced fruit-free bun that tears apart to reveal a pale-green centre of Pistachio Papi creme ($7.50 ea). Available from March 22 every day until Easter at Shop 3, 240-250 McKinnon Road, McKinnon, lumosbakery.com.au

Even more indulgent is Village Bakery’s campfire-reminiscent creation, which is drawing people from the other side of Melbourne. A deeply toasted marshmallow is sandwiched in a choc-chip hot cross bun glazed with a spiced espresso mix. And because it’s Easter, the bun is spread with Nutella. Who said less was more? $6 each, 38 Grantham Street, Brunswick West

Lt Cardigan bakery is making the most of sharing a space with Bench Coffee roastery. Its hot cross buns include a shot of espresso in the dough, the bitter edge offsetting the hunks of chocolate and candied orange strewn throughout. Dried apricot is another creative touch. $6 each, 38 Breese Street, Brunswick, littlecardigan.com