La Bimba

Every beach town deserves a place like this - sandy feet, bare knees or black silk with sparkles are all totally acceptable, any time of the day, in the unpretentious La Bimba eyrie, where the ocean and its succulent produce are the focus of attention. The specials board brims with fishiness; maybe a whole baked, spiced fish, local cray with asparagus, or mussel and abalone hotpot. As the sun sets over the bay, diners smugly dally over a glass of albarino far from the madding crowd below, knowing their only pressing engagement will be with a huge seafood-laden paella for two, or rich, crisp lamb with sweet peas and goat's cheese. Service can occasionally become stretched at this breakfast-to-stumps operation, so just relax and enjoy the holiday pace. Perhaps some slow food will help. truffle honey from the owners' farm is drizzled on local blue cheese and baby beets, and trickles into ice-cream with an Earl Grey and cocoa tart.