Ladro Gertrude

In 10 years as the pacesetter for Gertrude Street dining, Ladro remains the local go-to for casual, charismatic Italian fare. From the wood-fired oven come roughly formed artisanal pizzas, judiciously strewn with fine ingredients. Crowd favourites include Gamberi Piselli (prawns, peas, basil and chilli), and Lazio (fior di latte, lemon and carciuga, an earthy artichoke-and-anchovy paste). Beyond the sparky pizza offerings, sample tried-and-true starters such as vitello tonnato. The daily arrosto (roast) might feature duck three ways with pumpkin, cinnamon and honey, the sweet spiciness of the dish reflecting the chef's Sicilian heritage. Seafood mains further reflect this drift towards the food of southern Italy, with barramundi or blue-eye paired with fregola plumped in shellfish stock. The snappily dressed waiters cater to a mixed and mellow crowd, so you'll find hipsters and oldsters knocking elbows over top-notch cannoli and bomboloni.