Mamak

Handmade roti, fresh off the grill, is the star of this rowdy dining hall. Roti-makers stretch and fold the dough into puffy sculptures to dunk in lentil curry with house-made sambal on the side, or shape it into tall, buttery, tissue-thin cones, crusted with sugar. It's based on the cheap, always-open 'mamaks' of Malaysia that dish up typical Muslim cuisine. Expect excellent nasi lemak with crunchy peanuts and salty ikan billis (dried anchovies); gutsy curries, such as Spanish mackerel; and wok-tossed noodles (mee goreng). Teh tarik, aerated 'pulled' tea made with sweetened condensed milk, does for dessert. Expect to queue; this mamak runs flat-chat.