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Mamak

Mamak, restaurant, Melbourne.
Mamak, restaurant, Melbourne.Supplied

13.5/20

Malaysian$$

Mamak, a spin-off of the Sydney stalwart, brings the traditions of Malaysia's roadside food stalls to Melbourne, simultaneously elevating the humble roti to hero status. The bustling eatery's shopfront window showcases the roti chefs and their impressive twirling techniques. Roti chanai is a delicately folded version that's crisp, flaky and soft all at once, while roti bawang tucks thin slices of red onion between sheer, lightly browned layers; both come with dhal, fish curry and shrimp-paste sambal. Beyond this signature moment, diners of all ages tuck into a small range of mains such as kari ikan, chunky mackerel cutlets in a soupy tamarind curry with rough-cut eggplant, tomato halves and okra; or nasi goreng (fried rice) tossed with prawns, green-bean segments and a slice of lime, adding to the experience with hawker-style drinks such as frothy pulled tea tarik sweetened with condensed milk. Mamak is a lively, noisy spot to momentarily take your foot off the pedal.

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