Mamasita

Yes, you may have to queue to snare a table, and it can get noisy. Now stop whining and pass the salsa because Mamasita is one of the most exuberant dining experiences you're likely to have. The owners have pinned the zeitgeist, yet Mamasita avoids taking itself too seriously, unless we're talking margaritas and tequila, which are taken very seriously indeed. The food is lip-smackingly fun, the char-grilled corn cobs, swathed in cheese, mayo, paprika and lime juice legendary. Tostaditas are morsels of pleasure, perhaps topped with avocado and crab. Invariably good are the tacos and quesadillas, with fillings that might range from luscious huitlacoche (a corn fungus that is a Mexican delicacy), mushroom and zucchini to char-grilled chicken, coriander and cheese. More adventurous is the zesty ceviche of raw blue-eye, swimming in coconut milk, chilli and lime. For dessert, the sweetcorn icecream is on-theme, but better is the lemon chilli sorbet with mango. Kudos to staff who happily handle the crowds.