Noir

Setting up shop in grungy Swan Street is what some might archly call 'a brave decision'. But it seems fortune may indeed favour the brave. Slowly, quietly, owners Peter Roddy and Ebony Vagg have built strong word of mouth for their small split-level space, kitted out simply with dark grey walls, curvy light fittings and knotted timber tables. It's an intimate setting, candlelit at night, in which to appreciate Roddy's deft European cooking. A slice of terrine alternating confit duck and foie gras, with quince chutney and brioche toast, is a strong opening gambit. Next might come barrumundi roasted with a deliciously cheesy crust, surrounded by creamy, parsley-flecked moules marinieres, or rabbit pie, spooned into its pastry lid at the table, alongside pureed parsnips and petite roasted ribs. While not strictly necessary, side dishes such as cauliflower and comte gratin are utterly worthwhile. Desserts such as lemon posset with mandarin granita may be more likeable than remarkable.