P M 24

Philippe Mouchel's aim is to recreate the French bistro experience. He may have surpassed his goal. The kitchen punctuates the space created by towering ceilings and portions the restaurant into a more casual bar, kitchen-side eatery and an intimate space at the rear. Sit by the famous red rotisserie and watch the theatre of the kitchen as French technique meets modern creativity. No pretension here, just real flavours artfully combined. White anchovy and Meredith goat's curd transform humble roasted beetroot to a sweet and salty confection. The soft, deep flavour of spanner crab makes an unforgettable 'bolognese' sauce for capellini, while the rotisseried Milawa organic chicken with rosemary and preserved lemon is a menu hero that keeps regulars returning. Pommes frites are far from ordinaire, flavoured with garlic, parmesan and rosemary, and rich chocolate tart is enlivened by mango and passionfruit foam. Just when you think a perfect evening is over, giant snips of house-made strawberry marshmallow are a parting gift. The pride of staff is obvious and justified.