14.5/20
British$$$
Papa Goose hangs its hat on modern British fare, taking classic British ingredients - beef, salmon, trout, cauliflower, potatoes, mustard - and applying distinctly continental techniques to them with contemporary panache. Rich duck liver parfait is accompanied by pear chutney and brioche, while hefty seared scallops nestle in parsnip puree with a pastrami crumble. Plating comes to the fore in the mains, where moist pork loin sits atop a gelatinous prawn sheet amid blackened corn and a gentle mustard sauce. A perfectly pink duck breast comes with chard and salsify, the oils cut by parsley and orange in the jus, while roasted cauliflower and walnuts in a red onion and Madeira reduction make a pleasingly sharp accompaniment. It all adds up to a surprisingly distinctive palette. Add desserts such as a traditional golden syrup pud, professional service and a stylish, timber-accented dining room, and Papa Goose should have you lounging back and thinking very fondly of England.
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