Sault

At this storybook sandstone farmhouse on the road into Daylesford, the seasons are acutely felt. Lavender fields and lush foliage mark the summer months; come winter, there are bare-bones trees and a welcoming fireplace. This seasonality translates to the menu, where pink-centred venison fillets might come with a rich, sticky jus, melting cubes of chocolate porter jelly, and the nutty crunch of toasted grains. Earthy, smooth mushroom custard is topped with a gently oozing 62-degree egg, a lick of truffle oil and mushroom and macadamia crumble. A crisped slab of suckling pig sits alongside caramelised quince terrine and half a baked apple. Snappily dressed staff are at once professional and relaxed, sailing between tables with practised ease, matching star regional wines to the contemporary cuisine. Following a dessert of pear tart with dabs of salted caramel, honeycomb shards and burnt caramel ice-cream, an expertly pulled espresso and a lavender madeleine make for a memorable send-off.