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Shira Nui

14/20

Japanese$$

Tiny and brightly lit, Shira Nui is located in a clump of shops off a six-lane stretch of Springvale Road. It would be labelled a hidden treasure if it hadn't earned such a solid reputation as a food destination over the past decade. Shira Nui's almost legendary omakase experience is the drawcard. With this option, owner-chef Hiro Nishikura - a gregarious, endearingly eccentric character - is liberated to take diners on a magical mystery sushi tour. Stops might include cod sushi topped with the micro-crunch of yellow fish eggs; theatrically blow-torched sushi, in properly generous proportion to rice wrapped with nori; glistening seared tuna; or baked oysters and scallops wrapped in nori vessels with curls of spring onion atop. Freshness impresses throughout. Eating a la carte is impeccably authentic, from a nabe hotpot (oysters, prawns, john dory, enoki and udon noodles in a clear, clean broth) to grilled eggplant, with two contrasting miso treatments. one sweet, the other umami-rific.

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