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Supermaxi

Supermaxi Article Lead - narrow
Supermaxi Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14.5/20

Italian$$

From its cool black and white decor - a terrific terrazzo floor, moody pendant lights and central bar - to service that sparkles with brio, Supermaxi is loud with stylish machismo. It's a perfect fit for Rita Macali's food - classy, robust, modern Italian fare without a whiff of preciousness. Justifiably renowned thin, cut-your-own pizza comes crisp-yet-chewy and topped with, say, tomato sugo and fior di latte kicking with olives, anchovies, capers and chilli. It's not all about the pizza, though. A handsome plate of thinly sliced wagyu bresaola (salt-cured, air-dried beef) topped with rocket, capers and shaved parmesan or a classic combination of juicy crumbed veal cutlet with tangy coleslaw are spot-on. So are desserts such as the signature golden slab of deep-fried custard sweetened with honey and vanilla icecream. Service may fray a bit when the place is pumping, but the hospitable buzz and staff's easy banter make it hard not to feel part of la dolce vita.

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