The Grace Darling Hotel

There's a breezy sociability about eating at a pub. That, and straight-talkin' service make the Grace's rather fancy dining room and menu a cheapie in wolf's clothing. Some mains will devour the budget, others squeeze in, such as a wagyu burger skewered with a whole pickle or a vegetable tagine. Choose share plates and you'll still eat handsomely and be able to try more of Craig Huntley's (ex London's River Cafe) global menu. Six, soft-centred porcini croquettes go down easily. Warm, oil-rich marrow served in the half-bone and with thin-sliced ciabatta is terrific, foiled by a bundle of continental parsley scattered with capers. Edgy bands and good booze add to the sociability.