15/20
Italian$$$
Ignore appearances. Within a shambles of mismatching pub architecture hides one of inner Melbourne's cosiest dining rooms, where you're welcomed warmly, like a friend to a party. Indeed, for your senses, it's quite the knees-up. Plump, fresh scallops pair harmoniously with their spinach and parmesan gratin. An entree of delicious prosciutto-wrapped rabbit loin remembers to bow to its companion, a spicy, caper-studded saute that drags frisee from wallflower to showgirl. Al dente tagliatelle might come with pork, fennel and sage ragu, and little lurking thrills of clove and cinnamon. Rib-eye steak is charry, black and pink in all the right places. The torn maltagliati pasta, flecked with breadcrumbs, comes with prawns, fennel and white wine - it's a deserving fixture on the menu. Finish by slurping brandy mascarpone with panettone bread-and-butter pudding, and reflect upon the virtues of simplicity. Here it's done admirably, in Grand style.
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