The Station Hotel

Despite the industrial cusp location and ever-present rumble of passing freight vehicles, once you're inside, the Station couldn't be more welcoming. Smart service, a great booze list and a buzzy, lived-in atmosphere encourage diners to settle in. Chef Sean Donovan knows his way around seafood and high-quality beef and there's a consistent leaning towards the hearty end of Frenchness here. Entrees of terrine, parfait or house-cured charcuterie make good starts, while a salad of juicy chermoula-spiced quail with quinoa, pomegranate and charry roasted peach displays exceptional balance. Choose from up to a dozen steak options of varying provenance, weight and cut, with all the right trimmings, or opt for daily fish specials, served, perhaps, with crushed potatoes and tomato vinaigrette. Cheese is given due regard and desserts such as the velvety Valrhona chocolate mousse with macerated cherries and kirsch will transport you.