Va Tutto

Still looking like a crisp, chic retro '60s film set near the top of the Ivanhoe strip, Va Tutto has accumulated regulars since opening in 2005. Menu choices abound. In the mood for classic Italian? The warmth of (long, thin) chitarra pasta nestled in sweet sugo sauce with herbed meatballs awaits. Ravenous? There are massive steaks, maybe tender scotch fillet in a striking copper serving dish with roasted whole potatoes. Asian flavours? They abound, including slightly crisp vegetarian dumplings with beancurd, bok choy and Asian mushrooms. Simply the usual? That would be the four-way duck, including a steamed bun with soy and a crisp leg on sweet roasted pear. Dessert also offers global choices, but going Australian wins out with pavlova presented like a sticky, sweet snowman topped with fruity flavours of berries and passionfruit. Va Tutto began assuredly as an outpost of what was happening in the city; the emphasis now feels comfortably more familiar than edgy.