Collingwood’s new walk-in wine bar Commis is like a warm hug

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I’m not a terrible eavesdropper, but I am keen to know what those two men are talking about. They are so avid and engaged, sitting at Commis, a new bar that feels like it’s been crafted for repartee. If only conversation could be shaken out like a tablecloth and the words shared with those around. The men leave, silver foxes scattering confidential chickens into the chill night.

Commis is a new project by a trio of alumni from Geralds Bar, the Carlton North institution that anoints the act of gathering, making every night feel like a fresh coronation for humanity.

This new walk-in bar is a similar and different third space, warm and flexible, a paean to the best in us.

An Expressionist wine list is categorised by mood, maybe ‘Drinking With The Inlaws’ or ‘Cork Dorks’.

Co-owner Daniel Docherty took his first bar job at 16, and worked at Geralds for 11 years. For him, Commis is an inevitability, a place to express hospitality and finally unbox his collection of cocktail paraphernalia.

The site – the old Son-In-Law space – had good bones. The new team warmed up the skeleton, softened it with timber, leather, art and music, and gave it the ability to hug anyone who walks in.

The drinks list is a wry shortcut to stripping away wine wankery. There is a Traditional version arranged by variety, and an Expressionist list categorised by mood, maybe “Drinking With The Inlaws”, “Cork Dorks” and “I Like A Firm Embrace”. Australian wine regions are given their Indigenous names. It’s joyous, pointed and real.

Gabriel de Melo Freire, also an owner, trained as a chef but was distracted by coffee, drinks and service before being lured back to the kitchen. Working alongside chef Evan Clark, his food is homely and thoughtful.

Corn is popped in a cute machine, charred leek is daubed with miso. There’s honour for the environment in a leaning to wild meats such as venison, and canny deployment of scraps. Vegetables used in chicken stock are repurposed for chicken soup croquettes. Excess milk is turned into ricotta gnudi.

Staff meals are shared with diners – maybe mussels in broth or spelt risotto – in a peek behind the scenes that is also a signal of respect to the team.

Co-owner Adina Weinstein Melder comes from a family of art dealers and she’s working on an art list to keep the wine list company. There are lithographs by Miro, Picasso and Dali on the walls, and originals from local artist-chef Philippa Sibley. Everything is for sale.

Bartender Tom Hope is also an artist. Between making spicy, frothy butter beers and Thinks (the gin cocktail you have while you’re thinking about what to drink) he will slowly draw a picture of the bar on wood panelling in the rear courtyard.

Commis is generous and suddenly crucial, a warm and wonderful salon for conversation and commingling. What a place.