Yak Italian Kitchen & Bar

With a wrap-around bar that takes centre stage, newly renamed Yak Italian Kitchen & Bar is still about that bar. There's a generous selection of wines available by the glass and a drink-friendly range of assaggini (small plates) that invites grazing. The chef's father makes a selection of cured meats, including spicy, salty capocollo (dry-cured pork neck) drizzled with olive oil and accompanied by crunchy grissini. Perfectly pink and tender vitello tonnato served in a warm brioche bun is another must. But the menu's focus is on handmade pasta. Delightful lemon and potato agnolotti with butter and sage sauce is still going strong, and it's worth ordering arso (burnt) flour pasta alla chitarra with a hearty, flavourful pork neck ragu, heightened with a bit of warmth from fresh green chillies. For dessert, freshly fried doughnuts, coated in crunchy sugar and filled with white chocolate and mango ice-cream, are almost impossible to resist.