Rosheen Kaul's Kashmiri rogan josh
Rogan josh is an iconic Kashmiri dish, and I'm not talking about the stuff you get from a jar or the tomatoey curry from Indian takeaway. Real rogan josh uses thick chunks of mutton or goat (my family's adaptation uses lovely, tender lamb) and has a vibrantly red, yoghurt-based gravy. The result is a beautifully rich meaty dish that is somehow still incredibly light, and the restrained spicing means that the flavour doesn't linger on your palate.
Ingredients
4 tbsp vegetable oil
pinch of asafoetida*
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
2 black cardamom, lightly crushed in a mortar and pestle
3 green cardamom, lightly crushed in a mortar and pestle
3 cloves
6 bone-in lamb chump chops
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground fennel
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp Greek yoghurt
1½ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder*
salt to taste
Method
1. Heat oil in a large heavy-based pan, then add the asafoetida, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, green and black cardamom and cloves. Saute until fragrant over medium heat.
2. Season the lamb with salt, then add to the pan with the ground ginger, fennel and cumin powders and brown all surfaces, stirring constantly.
3. Stir the Greek yoghurt and Kashmiri chilli powder together and add to the pan. Fry until the oil separates then add 1½ cups of water, along with ½ tsp salt, cover the pan and bring to a simmer.
4. Simmer for 35-40 minutes or until the meat is tender and falling off the bone.
5. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Serving suggestion: this dish goes beautifully with fluffy steamed rice and all manner of flatbreads. It is incredible served immediately, but even more delicious when eaten the next day.
*My rogan josh gets its red colour from Kashmiri chilli powder only, subverting the need for dried coxcomb flowers. Kashmiri chilli powder is very special as it has very little heat but imparts a vivid red colour to dishes. My family are Hindu, so we cook our traditional dishes with hing (asafoetida) to give a distinct allium fragrance, rather than onion or garlic as the Kashmiri Muslims do. Both asafoetida and Kashmiri chilli powder are easily found in well-stocked supermarkets and South Asian grocers.
Note: I strongly advise against using powdered and whole spices interchangeably, as the all-important balance of seasoning will be thrown off. A restrained hand is important here.
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Rosheen Kaul is head chef of Melbourne's Etta restaurant, author of cookbook, Chinese-ish, and Good Food recipe columnist.
