29 nine 99

Locals and dumpling-loving visitors alike come to take yum cha in the back rooms of this old sandstone country inn cheerfully festooned with Chinese art and artefacts. And no wonder: everything tastes so fresh, mainly because it is. Owner-chef Na Lan and her loyal team chop the ingredients and wrap the dumplings themselves, so flavours remain clearly defined, light and delicate inside their elastic, translucent skins. There are around 30 dumplings and buns on offer, running from delicate har gow-style spinach and prawn dumplings to pan-fried potsticker dumplings and steamed barbecued pork buns. There are also steaming hot soups (when the place is not overrun), Peking duck pancakes and plump parcels of lotus leaf-wrapped sticky rice. Finish with black not-too-sticky glutinous rice with not-too-sweet coconut, or just kick back over one of the dozen high-quality Chinese teas on offer. On Saturday nights, a Thai chef prepares a special Thai banquet.